Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can understand having issues with the plenum,however i'm using a greedy inlet manifold with a sub zero 80mm billet throttle body.I'm more concerned with cam cover issues,pretty much everything else should take care of it's self????

Has anybody given there respective rego depts a change of engine no. and not been asked for a look at the change over?Thats to say notified a change of engine no from an rb25 eng no to an rb30 eng no and not been asked or quried?

Regards,

SKYLINE (Kym)...... :innocent:

This is a really long thread now.

I remember near the start someone was collecting the info to be put in a word document and posted up. Did this ever happen?

Further searching has come up with this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35556

So Joel, did this ever get posted?

Thanks.

Oh wow son of rajab help me son of rajab jesus wow....

I read all 72 posts haha

Now that was a chore and a half to do.

:band:

Now here is the trick and I need honest advise here. I am pretty sure you guys in AUS have been getting the new skyline ( G35) down there. For those that work in shops Like SydneyKid: One of my options for a chassis donor for the rb31 motor is a G35. If I were to say go 4wd the setup will bolt up correct? I did see a 350z with a rb26tt AWD in it fully functional. Was told no extensive modifications were done to it. Could anyone comment on that? Also other vehicles of choice are the following:

LS400

SC300 - Soarer

GS300

Q45 - 1995 + ( they look alot like the chasers hehe)

I was also thinking of a Volvo S60 ( but engine bay restricts that)

Anyone else would like to add some chassis suggestions to the list? I do not want something too old, but yet not something to cheapy looking like a 240z or something like that.

Remember I am living in the states and can't afford an insane skyline. Damn too way over priced over here. I thought of a s13/s14 but I am parting out my current drift machine to pay for this project. Mainly the motor

:elaugh: I was also thinking of a porchse hmmm...

Anyone give me some ideas, but something tells me a G35 will be the winner that or the GS300.

P.S I am to keep this car with motor for te rest of my life. That's why the motor is going to be overbuilt. So as to have more then ample tolerance for the hp and what I will be doing drift, & road course.

If anyone can contribute any pictures please do do.

Thanks

Daiso

----------------------------

I am at :hippy: with motors.

Hi Daiso, lots of questions;

I have seen a couple of 350Z with RB26's in them but they were 2wd. They are designed for a V6 so just fitting the in line 6 in the engine bay is not easy. It doesn't bolt up to the 350Z gearbiox either. The floor pan, front suspension and engne location would make fitting 4wd very expensive and extensive.

If you are looking at Toyota chassis then you would be better with an engine that simply bolts in and has the turbo/turbos on the right hand side of the engine. Say a 1JZ, 1.5JZ or a 2JZ they bolt straight into the SC300, GS300 and IS300 and numerous Supra models.

We don't as yet get G35 here, they are pretty much the same layout as the 350Z with a V6. So the same problems exist in fitting an inline 6 in them plus they don't have with 4wd. That might come with the new GTR, one day.

I think the S14 240 is the go, the RB20/25/26/30 conversion is common in the US, there are quite a few shops who can supply the kits, engine mounts, radiators etc

My 20 cents worth.

well a z350 jsut ran 7.30 @ 191 mph so there is you best engine base

cheers

Ehh

s13/s14's are not an option here. I know they are easier to use as well as a 350z. But I opted to use only the G35 ( in terms of nissan) for it's style and well virtually I am makeing my own skyline without Altessa system. Since the majority of serious drivers take it off anyways. I am fully aware that useing the Lexus chassis will require custom mounts and a drive shaft. Wireing well thats a given. I am going to make a tad simpler by not going AWD. But still the cars listed are somewhat my options. Another thing I was thinking is audi 2001 +. They have the rounder curves and would look great as a road racer. Sleek and and well sleek. hehehe. The readiator support and firewall will have to be modified slightly but I am confident it will fit. Also takeing into account that the audi motors are V type it will fit. I had a S4 bi - turbo motor and tran which I sold off. and that thing was rahter big compared to the inline 4 or 6 of a nissan.

As you can tell this is going to be a long term project. That's why the motor must be prestine and I am going to pay a pretty penny for it.

I guess its my choice in the end.

Thanks

Daiso

daiso,

it might be a good idea to start a new thread on your topic, you may get a lot more reply's (as the majority of people porbably won't be monitoring this thread because of it's size) and help keep this thread purely about the RB30 conversion

Thanks

Kent

daiso,

it might be a good idea to start a new thread on your topic, you may get a lot more reply's (as the majority of people porbably won't be monitoring this thread because of it's size) and help keep this thread purely about the RB30 conversion

Thanks

Kent

Your right, so back to the topic RB30's.

I have read the thread and well I was not really satisfied how the turbo topic was covered. What I am looking for is as high HP I can get but no or almost no lag what so ever. I hate lag, which is why I am decideing on rb30. I want to source our a turbo as my motor is being built. Would anyone like to post their turbo setups and advantages disadvantages? At what rpm are they hitting maximum turbine efficency and what powerout put is being putout?

Please let me know, I am not sure if there is a turbo out there that would be able to max at 700 - 800 at around 5,500 -6000 rpm. Anyone has thoughts. Also not sure if this is practical, but would it be to much to ask the turbo to be daily driveable???

Thanks

Daiso

Your right, so back to the topic RB30's.  

  I have read the thread and well I was not really satisfied how the turbo topic was covered. What I am looking for is as high HP I can get but no or almost no lag what so ever. I hate lag, which is why I am decideing on rb30. I want to source our a turbo as my motor is being built. Would anyone like to post their turbo setups and advantages disadvantages? At what rpm are they hitting maximum turbine efficency and what powerout put is being putout?

Please let me know, I am not sure if there is a turbo out there that would be able to max at 700 - 800 at around 5,500 -6000 rpm. Anyone has thoughts. Also not sure if this is practical, but would it be to much to ask the turbo to be daily driveable???  

Thanks

Daiso

You get a bit desensitised to power outputs on here sometimes. I took a friend for a ride in an R34 GTT last week, it has 265 rwkw (about 435 bhp). He is very used to powerful cars, currently he owns an F360 Ferrari and he has had a few Porsches before that. After a few minutes of driving in the R34 he was stunned at how fast it was, he simply had no idea what a Skyline was capable of. I then tried to explain to him how much faster the race R32 GTST was with more than 400 rwkw (650 bhp) and 200 kgs less weight. I don't think he could comprehend it, so I promised when the new RB31DET goes in he can come for a ride.

The point is Daiso, do you have any idea how fast a 700-800 bhp Skyline really is? Then think of it as a 2wd daily driver in the rain, heat, snow (probably not in California), traffic (definitely in California) etc. On the race track, the extra 200 bhp comes in very handy, but I don't think I could ever use it on the road.

If you still want to check out some turbos, pop onto the Turbonetics site, the dual ceramic ball bearing, titanium compressored T66 is the go for a bit over 700 bhp.

Hope that helps :burnout:

You get a bit desensitised to power outputs on here sometimes.  I took a friend for a ride in an R34 GTT last week, it has 265 rwkw (about 435 bhp).  He is very used to powerful cars, currently he owns an F360 Ferrari and he has had a few Porsches before that.   After a few minutes of driving in the R34 he was stunned at how fast it was, he simply had no idea what a Skyline was capable of.  I then tried to explain to him how much faster the race R32 GTST was with more than 400 rwkw (650 bhp) and 200 kgs less weight.  I don't think he could comprehend it, so I promised when the new RB31DET goes in he can come for a ride.

The point is Daiso, do you have any idea how fast a 700-800 bhp Skyline really is? Then think of it as a 2wd daily driver in the rain, heat, snow (probably not in California), traffic (definitely in California) etc.  On the race track, the extra 200 bhp comes in very handy, but I don't think I could ever use it on the road.

If you still want to check out some turbos, pop onto the Turbonetics site, the dual ceramic ball bearing, titanium compressored T66 is the go for a bit over 700 bhp.

Hope that helps :burnout:

Thanks sydneykid.

You absolutely have a valid point there. To be really honest, and hopefully I am not running people thru bush's of confusion here, but reason why I say " daily " is again dependablility. In all practicality the motor will not be driven daily. As you have mentioned 700 - 800 bhp car in traffic, rain etc is just asking for trouble. Especially morning traffic, stop and go... stop and go in a 2 - 3 plate clutch.. I had a hard enough time with my single disk Ogura race clutch for my 340hp sr20det. Again this project is going to be long term and I am deffinantly not going to sell it ever!!! just like I am parting out my 180sx. I want to choose 1 setup and go with it till it dies on me and have to replace it. I don't want to drive.... get use to the power and then spend more money to upgrade a turbo etc when my initial goal was that higher power figure. If I am going to invest such a large amount of capital I want to invest it once or as few as possible after the initial investment. By all means, and I have mentioned this before with sydney kid, I am not going to use the full 900 the motor will be built to tolerate. I always overbuild all of my projects for longevity. Would it be possible to have some " Ideal " turbine graphs posted so I can do a bit research on this myself?

Thanks

Daiso

:rofl:

JNR24 what engine did you have in your R33 before your RB30 conversion?

Damn this was the longest thread I have ever seen.

what do any of you guys think is best for an immediate upgrade in engine power?

I was looking at this website and noticed they had heaps of stuff for Skylines and is this Turbo much different from the RB26DETT one?

http://hioctaneracing.com.au/eshop/product...products_id=366

Yesterday I picked up a VL S2 RB30E bottom end for free.

It was striped down and I found it to be in good condition, even the Nissan bearings were hardly worn.

The girdle looks to be very similar to an RB26 one as SK has said before.

Attached are some pics.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...