Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wow what a power curve :)

What do you think you'll make with the 3076 at higher boost Al?

I'll be very happy with anything over 300rwkw.

My aim was to have as much power as my previous set-up, with more torque and response - I have already achieved that with the run-in tune :D

At 20psi, with a final tune, i may see 310-330rwkw, but time will tell.

post-1811-1205110283_thumb.jpg

Top work Al.

What do you think? Feels like a BIG NA with a nice top end? :)

Pretty much. Feels damn great, especially the torque :D

Joel, just compared your graph to mine (on the dyno comparison web page) and you have more midrange; is that your final tune and how much boost are you running?

Has anyone fitted a high energy HE2112 VL 3.0L Commodore Super Pan $458.53* into a 32 without having to use a custom made front sway bar?

http://highenergy.com.au/index.php?module=...5539231984-1177

1105702755453-8851.jpg

A few pages back, Al had problems with his HE8124 Pro-Circuit 3.0 VL/Nissan, 4 Gates, 7L, P/Up clearing the sway bar.

You need to replace the front swaybar bar for both the 6.5 litre and 8 litre HE sumps. I designed the bars for them and for dry sump equipped RB's a couple of years ago. Quite a few sold now, for example Giant used one at Tsukuba last year. PM me for details.

Cheers

Gary

Al im sure you've probably mentioned this somewhere before, but what exhaust A/R are you using? 1.06??

0.83

I chose the components to achieve great response, as i like to use the car for motokahnas, soon to do a few hill climbs and a few track days.

Big power was never my goal :P

Pretty much. Feels damn great, especially the torque :P

Joel, just compared your graph to mine (on the dyno comparison web page) and you have more midrange; is that your final tune and how much boost are you running?

Whats the link I've lost it. :)

Mine isn't the best comparison as it runs a shorter diff ratio 4.363:1 + due to the lazy actuator it wasn't making 15psi until 4500rpm on the dyno. ~11psi at 3000rpm.

I had a cheap ball/spring bleeder on it which was taken off due to the rb20det gearbox; it brought boost on MUCH earlier; we saw 19psi by ~3200rpm which tailed off to 17psi by peak power where we saw a peak of 285rwkw. So 17psi 285rwkw.

The curve was a bit wobbly due to something strange going on. Shaun said it was airflow related and most likely related to the small cams (240dur in 232dur exh). I have since measured the intercooler piping which I've discovered the OD is only 50m :S

So 2" IC piping I'd say is the issue. I had it fitted ~6years ago when 200rwkw was the now 400rwkw. :)

I'm sorting an FMIC for it now + ebc and baby cams all to go in so fingers crossed with the std exh. manifold we can push 300rwkw out of it.

Would love to get a hold of a hks cast manifold :)

http://sau.garagespank.com/login.php

Mavric had a HKS manifold for sale, not sure if he sold it yet :D

Whats the link I've lost it. :thumbsup:

Mine isn't the best comparison as it runs a shorter diff ratio 4.363:1 + due to the lazy actuator it wasn't making 15psi until 4500rpm on the dyno. ~11psi at 3000rpm.

I had a cheap ball/spring bleeder on it which was taken off due to the rb20det gearbox; it brought boost on MUCH earlier; we saw 19psi by ~3200rpm which tailed off to 17psi by peak power where we saw a peak of 285rwkw. So 17psi 285rwkw.

The curve was a bit wobbly due to something strange going on. Shaun said it was airflow related and most likely related to the small cams (240dur in 232dur exh). I have since measured the intercooler piping which I've discovered the OD is only 50m :S

So 2" IC piping I'd say is the issue. I had it fitted ~6years ago when 200rwkw was the now 400rwkw. :)

I'm sorting an FMIC for it now + ebc and baby cams all to go in so fingers crossed with the std exh. manifold we can push 300rwkw out of it.

Would love to get a hold of a hks cast manifold :(

Hi Al

that's a great result. also the under bonnet shots show off a lot of neatness eg the airbox. very naace, i like. whats the small rubber tube coming to/from the airbox?

cheers

Thanks mate. As much effort was spent on making the bay look neat as making the engine strong and reliable.

The hose to the airbox is the "breather hose" from the catch can, in the top right corner. Just like factory, it is plumbed into the intake. The catch can is properly baffled and also drains into the H.E. sump.

For some strange reason i am particularly happy with the fitment of the washer bottle inside the guard and the snorkel coming through into the bay.

Thanks mate. As much effort was spent on making the bay look neat as making the engine strong and reliable.

The hose to the airbox is the "breather hose" from the catch can, in the top right corner. Just like factory, it is plumbed into the intake. The catch can is properly baffled and also drains into the H.E. sump.

For some strange reason i am particularly happy with the fitment of the washer bottle inside the guard and the snorkel coming through into the bay.

that's a great idea. missed the snorkel first time, i did a similar thing on a Jensen Interceptor with a commodore bottle and was equally pleased because it worked so well. can i ask what it comes from?

Well mine is back on the road; but in run-in tune. :)

Couldn't be happier, i keep grinning every time i press the GO peddle.

Below is a few pics of the completed engine bay and the run-in tune. The boost is very responsive, and that's only controlled by the actuator (no bleed valve, EBC or restricters) Once i have completed 1000km, it will be wound up to 20psi, then the fun really begins :thumbsup:

looks fantastic mate!

Wish mine was on the road, just waiting on the workshop to pull finger from arse and get it done...

I pick mine up late next week :) I didn't realise how expensive it would be. My RB20 cost 4.5k and i have spent 12k just on parts with the new engine and still have to pay for the machining. I did go a bit crazy with name brand parts tho :thumbsup: Check out the relief work to clear the cam lobes.

post-24062-1205204800_thumb.jpg post-24062-1205204815_thumb.jpg post-24062-1205204875_thumb.jpg

With regards to previous page where i asked about Engine management. I dont mind the sound of the Autronic. Thanks guys.

post-20486-1205227906_thumb.jpg

My pistons arrived today.

For those that dont know I asked to have them made for a pin diameter of 22mm. When I got them they were 21mm. I also noticed that the small ends on my rods were 1" thick over the standard .857" for all other aftermarket (and stock) connecting rods so nothing really suited. I sent them back to CP. They were remade within a week and delivered to my door today at no extra cost.

I am so happy to see that my rods now fit!

that's a great idea. missed the snorkel first time, i did a similar thing on a Jensen Interceptor with a commodore bottle and was equally pleased because it worked so well. can i ask what it comes from?

I think it came off a Honda Accord or maybe a Prelude. Not too sure as my mate got it from his father's wrecking yard and he just searched through a stash of different water bottles.

Al, Is that just paint on the intake piping/intake plennum?

Nope...:P

All pipes, plenum, brackets, catch can, cam covers, power steering reserviour, etc have been powder coated.

RB120WHY: Looks like it's going to be one very aggressive engine, keep us posted :)

looks fantastic mate!

Wish mine was on the road, just waiting on the workshop to pull finger from arse and get it done...

It's taken 12-13 months, but most the delays were due to other w/shops

ie: - 3 months for the block machiniest

ie: - 17 weeks to finally get a good sump H.E. -> ETM -> H.E.

ie: - 5 weeks for the engine bay to be painted

etc..

While i was waiting it was hugely frustrating, especially missing all the SAU-VIC events and cruises, but i honestly couldn't be happier with the result.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...