Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The bigger the turbo the less it muffles the exhaust, that's why you can get away with a straight through setup on a stock rb20 and still have it bearably loud. With a GT30 the exhaust wheel is that much bigger and doesn't do a good job at muffling so you need a better exhaust setup. Keep this is mind when choosing exhausts people, turbo size influences the noise level drastically.

hey just a quick question,

i have just recently bought a brand new n1 oil pump will i also need to buy the jun crank collar too? and second thing i bought my oil pump from a Japanese tuner shop (st hi tec) and also bought 1 tomie oil restrictor but when buying this soichi cautioned several times not to use the oil restrictor as it is made for a rb26 and most likely to run the head dry and i have been told this by a couple of other guys too but some say to use it. Can anyone help?

my combo is

rb30 block with r32 NON vct head

wiseco forged pistons

shot peined rods

and just a standard recond rb25 head.

Quick question - how long does it take your cars to reach operating temp (we'll go by water temp)

From dead-cold to 80 degrees, it takes my donk about 5-6minutes... is this on par with other RB30s? Overall the engine does run quite hot, especially on the turbo side :P

Sounds about right. I've only recently whacked a new thermostat and water pump in there, before then I'm pretty sure the thermostat was getting stuck open as it would take AGES (read: 15-20mins) to get up to 80deg and would rise past there easily as if the thermostat wasn't opening fully.

Edited by bubba

Yeah the only thing is i only just need to get it rebuilt so it would be cheap, i would add cams but i dont have that much money to spend so thats about it.

I saw it made 344kw on a RB25 not much done to it at 7500 RPM but didnt boost till about 4.5.

Yeah I'm using one... 3" Hi-Flow Metalcat; I wasn't really using it for any performance reasons... more for legality, and also to get rid of the repulsive fuel smells coming from my exhaust which was also coating my rear bumper yellow. Great success in achieving these two goals.

Is it true that the Mazda 323 1.7d cambelt is the same width but 152 teeth long so it can be used?

Yep. half the price too :laugh:

Myself and 3 other guys i know well are running them with no problems.

Hey guys quick question..

Haven't got a block yet, but first thing I do will be to strip it down and go get it checked over before I rebuild the thing myself

I'm gonna get some pricing from some engine rebuilders around me, to help with the planning

What are the things do you guys think I should be asking for?

I hear you don't really need to rebore the cylinders

So just get pricing on machining the deck, acid dipping, repositioning of the tensioner, crack testing? Anything else I should get pricing on?

Plan for worst, hope for the best really.

Can someone confirm for me if its ok to use the RB25DET idler pully and tensioner with an RB26 head? Apparently there are two different tensioners, one for the RB20/25 and another for the 26...

Can't say I've seen any difference. Just use 2 x 25 tensioners as you can have too little slack with the high tensioner/low idler location.

There is no need for a difference as they do exactly the same job. Don't buy from Nissan but go to rolling bearings or somesuch. Should be about $120 for the pair.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • thanks mate, one of the reasons I even bought it to be fair.
    • I found parts on EFI Solutions webshop that seemed to be the accurate ones. I haven't gotten around to fitting the turbos back on the car yet since I still have to deal with the shitty crack in the engine block. But I'm confident that the bolts I ordered will fit. According to EFI they are also 7-16/24. The reason M11x1 got involved here is because it is apparently very similar to 7-16/24.
    • Well, to be fair to the car I've driven it daily for almost a decade now, although in that time only put on 50k, as it just recently passed 100k miles early this year. For the most part its been fine because I've been able to source parts from AUS like jacks jdm and a few places in Japan, some things like pads have been easy since 300z pads swap right in... I realize its probably at that time in its life i should find a new DD (but I rent and only have so much space, no garage) so new cars just complicate things. As it is older though, I recognize its about that time as with my '67 GTO to maybe side step and find an alternative, but if i can keep driving it... I want to.   That said, I may just look into a local shop that might be able to, problem is the mechanic I work with has limited space as a mom and pop operation, and he's a busy busy man, so id need to find out if he can keep the car in the meantime, which may or may not be practical for him. Maybe I'll just buy one off jacks jdm and get that refurbed /shrug.. just looking at options and what others may have to offer for advice on the matter. Like I said, its hard finding people around here who actually have one, I've had mine 9 and a half years and I've met 3 others, and they are all military, one was oem from 95 with 30k miles (rip that car... guy got hit after someone crossed s double yellow, totaled it)
    • I've noticed my rear springs sag a bit compared to the fronts. I have stock springs and KYB struts. The front wheels are pretty consistent in their ride height, but compared to the front wheels, one of the rears sits 20mm lower, and the other 40mm lower. This negatively affects the ground clearance, and also angles the headlights up. What are some some economical options for new springs? Or information like good spring rates, lengths  in order to find a suitable replacement etc Far from lowering the car, I'd prefer to raise it a bit to keep it ground clearance friendly.
    • I searched for ages as well, I'm importing an engine to get the head off it. 
×
×
  • Create New...