Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Rb30 Conversion

JNR24

By JNR24,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

The bigger the turbo the less it muffles the exhaust, that's why you can get away with a straight through setup on a stock rb20 and still have it bearably loud. With a GT30 the exhaust wheel is that much bigger and doesn't do a good job at muffling so you need a better exhaust setup. Keep this is mind when choosing exhausts people, turbo size influences the noise level drastically.

  • Replies 7.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Duncan
Duncan

Just thought I would bump this 20 year old thread because the Skid Factory have just posted up a video summarising a lot of the content, format might be more familiar for newer members

JNR24
JNR24

fyi guys, Well yesturday i picked up a RB30 for my conversion into my R33. I will be using my RB25DET head on the RB30 block. So i started stripping the motor down, pulled the crank, pistons, girdle

Cubes
Cubes

Here is all I have at the moment: http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ Unless you are on broad band make sure you right click then save as. The file is around 120kb. If there is anything I have got w

Posted Images

Redliner007 Enthusiast

Redliner007

Posted
Posted

hey just a quick question,

i have just recently bought a brand new n1 oil pump will i also need to buy the jun crank collar too? and second thing i bought my oil pump from a Japanese tuner shop (st hi tec) and also bought 1 tomie oil restrictor but when buying this soichi cautioned several times not to use the oil restrictor as it is made for a rb26 and most likely to run the head dry and i have been told this by a couple of other guys too but some say to use it. Can anyone help?

my combo is

rb30 block with r32 NON vct head

wiseco forged pistons

shot peined rods

and just a standard recond rb25 head.

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

Quick question - how long does it take your cars to reach operating temp (we'll go by water temp)

From dead-cold to 80 degrees, it takes my donk about 5-6minutes... is this on par with other RB30s? Overall the engine does run quite hot, especially on the turbo side :P

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sounds about right. I've only recently whacked a new thermostat and water pump in there, before then I'm pretty sure the thermostat was getting stuck open as it would take AGES (read: 15-20mins) to get up to 80deg and would rise past there easily as if the thermostat wasn't opening fully.

Edited by bubba
raZ1911 Proficient

raZ1911

Posted
Posted

Yeah the only thing is i only just need to get it rebuilt so it would be cheap, i would add cams but i dont have that much money to spend so thats about it.

I saw it made 344kw on a RB25 not much done to it at 7500 RPM but didnt boost till about 4.5.

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

Yeah I'm using one... 3" Hi-Flow Metalcat; I wasn't really using it for any performance reasons... more for legality, and also to get rid of the repulsive fuel smells coming from my exhaust which was also coating my rear bumper yellow. Great success in achieving these two goals.

fletch rb30 Enthusiast

fletch rb30

Posted
Posted
Is it true that the Mazda 323 1.7d cambelt is the same width but 152 teeth long so it can be used?

Yep. half the price too :laugh:

Myself and 3 other guys i know well are running them with no problems.

Shaun O Enthusiast

Shaun O

Posted
Posted

Hey guys quick question..

Haven't got a block yet, but first thing I do will be to strip it down and go get it checked over before I rebuild the thing myself

I'm gonna get some pricing from some engine rebuilders around me, to help with the planning

What are the things do you guys think I should be asking for?

I hear you don't really need to rebore the cylinders

So just get pricing on machining the deck, acid dipping, repositioning of the tensioner, crack testing? Anything else I should get pricing on?

Plan for worst, hope for the best really.

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

Can someone confirm for me if its ok to use the RB25DET idler pully and tensioner with an RB26 head? Apparently there are two different tensioners, one for the RB20/25 and another for the 26...

Can't say I've seen any difference. Just use 2 x 25 tensioners as you can have too little slack with the high tensioner/low idler location.

There is no need for a difference as they do exactly the same job. Don't buy from Nissan but go to rolling bearings or somesuch. Should be about $120 for the pair.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 677_GTR
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By 677_GTR · Posted

      Hi guys, I’m new to the GTR scene. Picked up an R33 GTR earlier this year that needs a lot of love. I’ve been going through the hot side, changing all the gaskets and while it was all off I managed to score a set of -9s. It still had the stock ceramics so I was pretty happy to get the 2860s.  I live in a small country in the pacific with 0 performance car scene. No dyno’s no performance parts, let alone stock parts for a skyline. I order everything from Australia and do it myself. This means I’ll be running the stock ECU. Maybe down the track I’ll get an aftermarket set up and do a remote tune.  Will the car run -9s on stock tune safely?  I have a very heavy foot so I really hope so 😂   thanks guys   
    • Duncan
      Leaking Rear Subframe Bushing?

      By Duncan · Posted

      perfect, no rush to address the leaking bush then, it's not doing much/anything
    • GTSBoy
      Does RB25DE Neo lower intake work with RB25DET Neo Upper intake manifold?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not sure if it will bolt up, but.... I'm reasonably sure that the ID of the runners is somewhat smaller on the NAs. So it probably wouldn't be a good match at the flange where the top and bottom meet. So that would be a reason to not do it. And the skinny runners would be the bit you're keeping, which would be a reason to no do it. You'd want the big runners if you were doing any work to swap stuff. Why not just use what you've got, like nearly everyone else who has +T'd an NA? You don't need or want the TCS throttle or other stuff that is specifically DET inlet/crossover.
    • TurboTapin
      Leaking Rear Subframe Bushing?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      lol already been put in temporarily 3 years ago
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      Makes sense. For actuators, if the pressure itself isn't adjustable, that would mean I'd need to think about 2 different actuators with 2 different pressures on paper in order for them to work at the same time if the turbos behave differently. So measure the difference in psi needed to move both, and then get an actuator to match that difference. Assuming I cant get rid of it by adjusting the arms.  You're exactly right, never happens in gear 1 or 2. I can occasionally get it in gear 3 if going uphill but its very small. Only ever in 4 and 5. Seems kind of backwards that one of the points of VCAM is faster spool but if it introduces shuffle then it actually slows spool down. 
×
×
  • Create New...