Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Answers after each question....

I have a few questions you guys might be able to answer.

1. when will boost come on when using a Gt3040 (475 hp)  with 9:1 comp, power fc with boost controller.

- Around the 3300rpm mark

2. For the guys with over 300rwkw, did you use the standard rb25 sump?, are these baffled?. -I know they have crank scrapers which need to be removed with the rb30.

- i'll be using the standard RB25 sump, i haven't been told any different or read they can't be used

3. another one for the 300rwkw club.  Are their any problems with the standard manifold?.

Ive heard that air is not distrubuted evenly into all cylinders, people have made some mods to the inside of the manifld to fix this problem.

- the standard inlet manifold is fine. It flows suprisingly well

4. Are aftermarket manifolds worth it?.

- depends what you are trying to achieve, if you want big power (450kw+) then yes they may be a benefit

5.Will the rb26 manifold complete with throttle bodies fit onto the 25 head?.

- not without expensive mods. I think there was someone selling adapter plates or something, can't remember

6. attached is a pic of a modified rb25 manifold.

What do you think of this?.

- I wouldn't do that. The inlet plenum is designed to have the air fed from the stock place. Nissan's engineers are pretty smart! If you want a front facing plenum then get one either off the shelf like a Greddy plenum or one made from someone that has designed it to work correctly like Sub Zero rather than just cut and shut the stock one.

Im using the rb20 sump. The engine builder just bent the fins back to clear the rb30 sump.

If u want good power over 300rwkw, go for a tubular exhaust manifold, and ext. gate

Intake, if u need it, can be bought from RIPS. Give him a pm, he makes a front facing jobbie in kit form (plenum, accelerator cable, throttle body). They must be good if he's in the 10's with his rb30det's :)

What depth etc do I drill the new tensioner hole to on the block?? A more exact location.

I don't want to hit a water gallery or drill into my bore :)

Oh and what do you guys do about mounting the powersteering etc, as the RB20 etc brackets wont fit the RB30. Do you use the RB30 mount?..which i don't have. And what about belts?

Thanks Guys,

Ben

With regards to mounting the powersteering.

I've just had a look at the two blocks.

The RB30 block is obviously taller. Hence the powersteering bracket cannot bolt in to the provision available at the front of the head. However in that same location (just above the waterpump) there is a hole available in the block where the hole normally would be in the head without the extra deck height.

I've posted a couple of pics.

It all looks the same to me from the pics. I hope it is. :)

To the guys using an R33 head (VCT), what injectors are you using? i've read 13B series 6 (550cc) injectors fit, but not sure if mods are needed. S15 SR20 has 440cc, and being nissan should drop straight in?? 7MGTE, 2JZGTE, 1JZGTE are all 430cc, but again unsure if they will fit.

Anyone had experience with these setups? If possible, i don't want to stuff around making a new top feed rail.

Impedance shouldn't be an issue, as i will being going aftermarket ECU. A resistor block can be made easily anyway if need be.

R33 fuel rail/inlet manifold are setup to use side feed.

R32 fuel rail/inlet manifold are setup to use top feed.

I was under the impression that the 13B 550cc injectors are top feed as Bl4ck32 has recently got his self a set.

So Unless the 13b injectors are sidefeed you will have to mod the R33's fuel rail.

With regards to mounting the powersteering.

 

I've just had a look at the two blocks.

 

The RB30 block is obviously taller. Hence the powersteering bracket cannot bolt in to the provision available at the front of the head. However in that same location (just above the waterpump) there is a hole available in the block where the hole normally would be in the head without the extra deck height.

 

I've posted a couple of pics.

 

It all looks the same to me from the pics. I hope it is. :)

Have you actually tried to bolt it on though?

It won't actually bolt on, but with some mods it should. Grind it a little.. :rofl:

I used the rb30 powerstearing pump bracket - bolts straight on and no problems to hook everything up.. Mine cost me $20 from the local commo wreckers.

about the compression ratio.. honestly when you get going I don't think you will eaven notice the difference. Off boost the car is still more than able to pull your house down. I personaly think you are wasting cash that could be spent elsewhere.

Just a question that I have for you all. What Oil should I be running in my motor?

Atm im running Castrol GTX3 (up to done 1200k'z) Is this oil ok for the motor?

I did the first 500km'z on GTX standard.

Yeah Joel, looks like you will need the RB30 one.. it's the shape of the bracket that stops it from working with the RB20 ones etc.

A lot of people use the RX7 550's. They seem to give pretty good results. I just bought some myself.

Some people told me the spray pattern is no good.. but if they do the job then..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...