Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SK , I like the idea of the RB26 head . Better cam profiles , larger valves (by how much I don't know) better and lower inlet manifold , common injector style . Was the RB26 head difficult to come by , obviously it was not cheap . I assume it can use the single turbo exhaust manifold plus coils and ignitor .

Thanks SK , A .

They'd be of interest if you own a 240Z/260Z, 280zx, 1600, Z31, DR30, or import R31.

Basically the newer R200 found in later skylines is too short for our cars.

Back on topic though, so with the 3.0L is worth dropping to say around a ~3.5 LSD you think without harming accceleration?

Would probably sit on nice low revs on the freeway I suppose.

They'd be of interest if you own a 240Z/260Z, 280zx, 1600, Z31, DR30, or import R31.

Basically the newer R200 found in later skylines is too short for our cars.

Back on topic though, so with the 3.0L is worth dropping to say around a ~3.5 LSD you think without harming accceleration?

Would probably sit on nice low revs on the freeway I suppose.

looks at my signature:

HR31 GT Passage Skyline

i think i've got 4.4's as my car was once auto and i was wondering how they would affect the 3L and its power out put. I think the 4.11 and 4.4's are in place to make the non torquey RB20 feel punchy and quick, but what will happen once the 3L with mountains of torque goes in? will the tires light up too easily?

:D

it sits nice and low in the rev range with the std r32 4.3 lsd....dont worry about extras unless its a) got to be sorted in a custom job (like drukenmaster), b)your old diff is rooted.

I always see people asking about big arsed turbos, injectors etc....how about people worry about building the motor, fitting it and getting it running......

 

I always see people asking about big arsed turbos, injectors etc....how about people worry about building the motor, fitting it and getting it running......

I will be fitting my solid fuel lines down the length of the car tonight, followed by the adjustable suspension during the week. Now it is easier to fit the diff and the rear suspension at the same time as they share mounting points, and I need to fit my new suspension in order to fit my modified front crossmember. Now the front crossmember will need to be in so I can fit my modified engine mounts to it, and those mounts will have to be there to sit my RB30DET on.

So sorting out a diff for me to pick up now is crucial to getting my RB30 fitted and running :wassup:

:jk:

Drunkenmaster , later I will look into a 3.7 or 3.5 ratio long nose R200 . Going from 2 litres to 3 should pull this easily . From memory VL's used a 3.45 std with a 3.3 1st gear (NA) .

Be careful, VL's came with 185/60/15's, compare that to my GTST with 245/45/17's, this turrns the 4.363 dif ratio into a 3.9. :)

Drunkenmaster , later I will look into a 3.7 or 3.5 ratio long nose R200 . Going from 2 litres to 3 should pull this easily . From memory VL's used a 3.45 std with a 3.3 1st gear (NA) .

Be careful, VL's came with 185/60/15's, compare that to my GTST with 245/45/17's, this turrns the 4.363 dif ratio into a 3.9. :)

Can someone tell me what valve sizes in RB26 and if ports/stud patern on exhaust side same as RB20/25DET .

No, this is like Groundhog Day. Nissan don't want you swapping GTR bits onto cheaper cars, so they designed it so it was different. :)

Hi,

I'm new to the forum and must say that this thread is oustanding, credit goes to everyone who has contributed.

I recently picked up a r33 GTST with a blown bottom end and after reading this thread i know what bottom end i'll be using.

I have purchased a GT3040 (0.82 exh ) to go with the new engine.

I have a question.

What parts will fit into the RB25DET head from a GTR head?, I have read in another thread that it's possible to use GTR cams in an RB20.

I got my block last week and after removing the head gasket noticed that there was a '2' stamped on each of the pistons and next to each cylinder on the deck. Is this an indication that the cylinders have been bored? The hone in the cylinders is pretty good considering the engine has 200,000k on it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
    • They are in fact just nozzles. They are there only to produce a spray pattern and limit flow. The injector itself is what I use to control flow to the 7x nozzles. My old system had no injector and only PWM the pump. This lead to a lot of inconsistencies, and poor atomization at low pressure when the pump was ramping up. 
×
×
  • Create New...