Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its not overly difficult, after you remove the fan and radiator. The instructions for each product should tell you what's required, ie RTFM.

The main problem with the thermo fan is triggering it - I used the output of the A/C thermo fan relay to trigger another relay that powers the new thermo fan.

But, 2 warnings:

1 You will need to re-wire the A/C thermo fan - the little one out front of the radiator - to come on when the A/C is switched on. Otherwise you overpressurise the A/C gas.

2. You will need to construct some sort of undertray to block off the gap between the front bar and the bottom of the radiator support panel, otherwise the air goes down and under the car rather than thru the radiator, and you will get overheating problems.

Thermo fan install is a piece of piss. Just dont bolt the fan straight to the the radiator by putting bolts straight through the cooling fins. Seen it done, the screws wear through the cores with vibration and you get a leak. I made some drilled aluminuium brackets from 100mm wide strap and mounted the fan to them then bolted the brackets to the old radiator shroud holes. I ran the fan off an aux output on a microtech (It was an RX7) but you can buy an adjustable thermo swith from Davies Craig.

Haven't installed an electric water pump. To get the most out of them I've heard that you need the controller (costs as much as the pump!). The pump gets fitted into the bottom radiator hose and you need to remove the belt from the water pump. I don't know how youd mount it though, it's got me stumped!

It would make sense if the water pump controller could trigger the fan but I don't know that it does.

I've heard good things about extra power from the electric water pump but haven't seen a back to back comparison on a dyno.

Hope this give's you some idea

i got told by some guys at autobarn today, cos they supply them... that they have used this on a race car to good effect, also a road car had one put on but i dunno how that one went

from what davies craig have sed, the pumps stops heat soak after the engine has shut down, by keep pumping the water so it cools down more evenly or soemthing to that effect

both the fan and pump will reduce lag on the pulleys giving more response and acceleration. also using light weight pulleys and undersizing them(?) will also help this to become more effective

Kamikaze, don't know if this is the most cost effective way to response and acceleration. It would seem to me that the best way is to exhaust your easily found mods and power gains on/in the motor, then when you have done all you can with that then start playing with reducing pulley loads, etc etc. I have made this comment in the assumption that you haven't done and aweful lot to your car.

the only thing i can do for the moment is finish off the zaust - which i will do very soon and a lighter flywheel

otherwise i have to start spendin some $ on things like fmic etc etc etc which i will do early next yr when i have some more $

has bout 170rwkws and pulls a 13.9 atm at 12psi

oh ok

yeha i just wanted to do this b4 i started those mods thats all....

and i prob need to change da water pump soon anyway

car only done 68k but didnt get changed when the timing belt got changed just b4 i bought it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...