Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its not overly difficult, after you remove the fan and radiator. The instructions for each product should tell you what's required, ie RTFM.

The main problem with the thermo fan is triggering it - I used the output of the A/C thermo fan relay to trigger another relay that powers the new thermo fan.

But, 2 warnings:

1 You will need to re-wire the A/C thermo fan - the little one out front of the radiator - to come on when the A/C is switched on. Otherwise you overpressurise the A/C gas.

2. You will need to construct some sort of undertray to block off the gap between the front bar and the bottom of the radiator support panel, otherwise the air goes down and under the car rather than thru the radiator, and you will get overheating problems.

Thermo fan install is a piece of piss. Just dont bolt the fan straight to the the radiator by putting bolts straight through the cooling fins. Seen it done, the screws wear through the cores with vibration and you get a leak. I made some drilled aluminuium brackets from 100mm wide strap and mounted the fan to them then bolted the brackets to the old radiator shroud holes. I ran the fan off an aux output on a microtech (It was an RX7) but you can buy an adjustable thermo swith from Davies Craig.

Haven't installed an electric water pump. To get the most out of them I've heard that you need the controller (costs as much as the pump!). The pump gets fitted into the bottom radiator hose and you need to remove the belt from the water pump. I don't know how youd mount it though, it's got me stumped!

It would make sense if the water pump controller could trigger the fan but I don't know that it does.

I've heard good things about extra power from the electric water pump but haven't seen a back to back comparison on a dyno.

Hope this give's you some idea

i got told by some guys at autobarn today, cos they supply them... that they have used this on a race car to good effect, also a road car had one put on but i dunno how that one went

from what davies craig have sed, the pumps stops heat soak after the engine has shut down, by keep pumping the water so it cools down more evenly or soemthing to that effect

both the fan and pump will reduce lag on the pulleys giving more response and acceleration. also using light weight pulleys and undersizing them(?) will also help this to become more effective

Kamikaze, don't know if this is the most cost effective way to response and acceleration. It would seem to me that the best way is to exhaust your easily found mods and power gains on/in the motor, then when you have done all you can with that then start playing with reducing pulley loads, etc etc. I have made this comment in the assumption that you haven't done and aweful lot to your car.

the only thing i can do for the moment is finish off the zaust - which i will do very soon and a lighter flywheel

otherwise i have to start spendin some $ on things like fmic etc etc etc which i will do early next yr when i have some more $

has bout 170rwkws and pulls a 13.9 atm at 12psi

oh ok

yeha i just wanted to do this b4 i started those mods thats all....

and i prob need to change da water pump soon anyway

car only done 68k but didnt get changed when the timing belt got changed just b4 i bought it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...