Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Ive look at sydney kids suspension setup and decided to go coil overs.. Now Ive got the Tein Super Street Setup from Nengun.com for $1100ish Which is alot cheaper.. I will prob purchace sways in the future

Firstly they seem to be easier to install and come with basically the same gear.. What do you guys rekon?

Secondly Im assuming they are Jap Spec which means harder.. Does anyone here have jap specs and is it a large difference to the Aus Spec?

Thirdly Are coil overs hard to install .. Im assuming its a simple - jack up unbolt shocks rebolt coilovers jack down then wheel alignment.. True or false?

Should I just get a pro to install them? If so id assume im looking $600ish??

Any help will be greatly appeciated..

Edited by DECIM8
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154345-tein-super-streets-r34/
Share on other sites

basedo n what i have experienced myself and what i have read on the forums...

i would say go the SK group buy, its far superior to coilovers for the street and requires less ongoing maintenance

also, suspension is something that should be done professionally...

I have Tein Super Streets (Jap spec). I haven't ridden in a car with Aus specs but the jap spec ones don't appear to be hard. I agree that they should be professionally installed though.

I simply went with the Tein's because of prices. I've ridden in an R34 4 door on a track day with pretty much the SydneyKid group buy and yes, a very good quality kit and well worth the $$

I have Tein Super Streets (Jap spec). I haven't ridden in a car with Aus specs but the jap spec ones don't appear to be hard. I agree that they should be professionally installed though.

I simply went with the Tein's because of prices. I've ridden in an R34 4 door on a track day with pretty much the SydneyKid group buy and yes, a very good quality kit and well worth the $$

Better than the Teins? minus the rest of the kit?

ie. coilover for coilover comparison

Also is the ride smoother and more comfortable? dont know if you got the chance to experience that on a track day

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...