Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

the rev limiter to stop you reving to a point where it is no longer safe. if nissan didn't want you to rev to 7000rpm the rev limiter would be lower.

it is ok to hit it now and then, just don't sit on it.

while the fuel is cut to limit the revs, it cuts it completely so there isn't really much heat. it is just sparking into air, not into a really lean mixture, or if there was and fuel vapour it would be creating less heat than what a full amount of fuel would.

I've seen an engine (redtop RB20) do a big end after being bounced off the limiter for a couple of seconds. It's not kind to the engine, so don't make a habit of it. Having it cut briefly on you because you didn't grab the next gear soon enough is OK.

That said, my charade used to rev its tits off.. I had mates who wouldn't get out of the car until I'd hit fuel cut at least once :happy:

Soft cut rev limits like those available on Motec/Autronic etc are kinder to the engines...but its best to avoid it if possible.

Then again, whilst its not great for the motor, if your not fussed then its hardly the end of the world...lol raise the limiter to 8,400rpm on a stf motor and go play :P

The harder you work the engine the faster it wears out... it's pretty basic really. As the guys said, don't make a habit of it, RB's are tough but like all engines they'll break eventually and constant high revving will only accelerate that process. Remember that engines are always in a constant state of degradation - it's only a matter of time before something needs replacing. So rev as hard as your wallet will allow :)

I hit the limiter a few times in my last car (Series II 33) and it still had almost identical compression when I sold it (had it for 14mths and always did the servicing with good parts).

If you're going to go hitting the limiter often, at least record it and show us so we can get our kicks without doing it ourselves :)

Cheers

the rev limiter to stop you reving to a point where it is no longer safe. if nissan didn't want you to rev to 7000rpm the rev limiter would be lower.

Thats quite true, although if your car was completely standard i suppose it would be ok. Nissan engineered it to be at 7000rpm from factory, not 7000rpm with mods and standard internals.... If your motor is designed to sit at a rev limiter like for drift n shit then you can sit there and drop the clutch from 7k lol but fuel cut rev limiter sounds a bit dangerous with mods i think...

the rev limiter is there in a safe place to stop you making melted steel out of ur motor. i have seen/driven many a car bouncing continuously off the rev limiter. Look at a typical drift meeting at barbs. For a good 150m we are smashing limiter up the hill in 3rd and yet to break anything. stop being so weak, get out there smash some limiter and scare some old people :)

I had a cefiro with over 100k's on it and i would atleast hit limiter once a day for the 8 months i had it, its still going strong! but ive fitted a bee r to my 34 to be a bit safer :ninja:

my mate has a natro rb30 that revs to 9000rpm. it will sit there all day.... well not quite. but it does have a rb26 oil pump and the centre of the crank shaft has been bored out to allow more oil through to cool the bearings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...