Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

There is this loud screaching noise when the car hasnt been started for a few hours or in the morning. Now i know the noise is coming from one of the recently replaced water pump, ac or power steering belts and goes away after a few seconds and stays quiet when im driving. Im thinking the mechanic either didnt tension the belt enough or to much? Or does this usually happen for the first few times with new belts once they are changed. Any feedback is appreciated thanks

Yeah its a belt. You can also buy a product from CRC i think, its a non slip sticky spray on stuff for belts. But you shouldnt need it. Just tighten them. Thats what i did when i had the exact same prob as you.

Thanks for the reply guys, its my regular mechanic so they will no doubt fix it for free i just thought maybe it would go away by itself after a while but looks like ye they didnt tighten it enough.

Thanks again

could also be caused by a small person caight in the engine bay. anytime you start the car it hurts so they scream.

That or a loose fan belt....tighten up the alternator adjuster

most probable that the belts have been put on too tight. U can adjust the tension in a few minutes with a shifter,

PM me for details on how to do this, I had this problem too when putting new belts on, they usually do it a bit tight to allow for stretching over time

Thanks for the feedback guys, i did adjust the alternator adjustment screw a little bit because i thought it was a little loose, then took it back to the mechanics and he said its fine because he didnt want to tighten it to much because it will put to much strain on the water pump and bearing if it was to tight. Maybe some grease or something got onto the belt while it was changed. Ill give it over the weekend to fix itself, if not back to the drawing board on monday i think hrmmm

ya same, my starter motor used to make a screeching noise only when it was cold. i took her out and slapped some grease in, hasnt done it since.

might even be the starter motor

mine was makn a screachin noise, still havent got it fixed.

  • 4 months later...

hey guys, im having the same issue atm with this. I put some no slip spray on it and this stopped the noise from happening as much, but it only lasted about a week or 2...

can anyone point me in the right direction of what screw i need to tighten, with maybe an image or something? Or where to locate it, any help would be awesome

As someone said they stretch over time. So when you first put them on, and adjust them to the right tension, they shoudl be all good, then as they over the next couple of hundred k's, you redadjust them again.

How does grease help the problem? I can see how grease would stop the noise (by lubricating), but I can't see the grease making the belt "grip" the pulley better. Unless it gets absorbed into the rubber over time and moistens it up or something?????? Kind of like, when you drive with wet shoes, it's slippery at first, but after it starts drying out it gets to a REALLY grippy stage....

Avoid using belt grip sprays.. they usually dont do much if anything at all.

If the belt is tensioned enough get a stick of dri-lube, and run it along the belt (carefully!) while the engine is idling until the noise stops.

Even the slightest bit of grease off the mechanics hands, while fitting, is enough to make the belt noisy.

If you can twist the belt about 3/4 of a turn is a good place to start and very very small adjustments until it stops making the noise.

Check out what a tight belt will do and i have done a OEM and N1 in the same way.

post-28646-1181502917_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...