Jump to content
SAU Community

Gts4 To Rwd How Too?

Antone
 Share

Recommended Posts

aDrew_C Enthusiast

aDrew_C

Posted
Posted (edited)

Uh, really it's going to save you a lot of money (or, better put, you'll gain money rather than lose it) if you just sell it and buy a gtst.

To properly CONVERT it to RWD, you'll just need to source gtst bits anyway.. Not worth it at all!

Edit: ok I see you said adjust, my bad. If you do mean temporarily, then it's simply a matter of removing a fuse (I don't know specifics), that's if its the same as a GTR, someone who knows more than me should be able to confirm this pretty easily.

Edited by aDrew_C
Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
hey guys im a noob at this.

Is it posible to adjust a r32 gts4 to just rwd?

how is it done?

how much?

whats involved?

cheers

Tone.

easy...buy a switch loom $35

you can register your interest here...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...5207&st=220

i need 3 more names before i do another batch

GTS4-32 Rising Star

GTS4-32

Posted
Posted

my car came with a switch, which also came with a problem, i lost my 4wd altogether now. I bought 'Dirtgarage' switch, which i was told it would override the error but it didnt do shit. Would anyone have an idea of getting my 4wd back into action?

Cheers

Steve.

heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted

check your fuses, check you have power going to the ets controller, if you have and it still doesn't work, check the flashing led on the ets controller and post back what the code is if you can't get a hold of a manual.

TurboX Mentor

TurboX

Posted
Posted

You would be wiser to check the fluid level in the reservoiur in the boot on the rhs. If that is ok you may need to bleed the system as well to get it working properly. That is assuming that the electronics are ok and you have checked the fuse under the hood is OK. It says on the cover which one.

GTS4-32 Rising Star

GTS4-32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yea the fuse under the dash and hood is fine, id have to have a look at the comp tommorow. And the fluid in the reservoiur seems to be fine.

You see my confusion comes when i try put 4wd back on its active, but only for about 3secs max, then the 4wd light comes on.

Hopefully its nothing major and i could resolve it myself with your help which btw i appreciate alot, cheers fellas.

Lets assume the electronics are fine though, how would i bleed the system? Sorry newbie with hands on work, jus want to know that im doing the right thing before i go cause another problem.

Cheers,

Steve.

Edited by GTS4-32
heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=bleed++attessa

In there is a howto on bleeding attessa.

Make sure you check the fuse under the bonnet as well. The ~3sec delay is normal for the 4wd light to come on if there is a fault.

Fluid good, Bled properly, check fuses, check the led on the ets controller for diagnostic readout.

GTS4-32 Rising Star

GTS4-32

Posted
Posted

Well i just had a quick look at the fluid level and condition in the reservoiur, and it seems to be black with a tinge of pink at the top but not much...would that be my problem there? Before i go any further with the investigation.

Cheers,

Steve.

GTS4-32 Rising Star

GTS4-32

Posted
Posted
check your fuses, check you have power going to the ets controller, if you have and it still doesn't work, check the flashing led on the ets controller and post back what the code is if you can't get a hold of a manual.

I had a look at the code on the ets controller and the red LED flashes 22 times in 1 sec period then stops and starts again. If i could please get a read out on what that means, be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Steve.

GTS4-32 Rising Star

GTS4-32

Posted
Posted
22 is ETS oil level switch or circuit.

You definately have enough fluid in the res?

Otherwise check the res level switch continuity.

If neither is the problem look at wiring harness or controller borked.

Well its just below max..but i will be bleeding it as soon as i can get another pair of hands to help me out and abit of time on my hands. Hopefully thatll solve my issue.

Thanks heaps heller44, uve been a great help. :laugh:

Cheers,

Steve.

  • 2 weeks later...
GTS4-32 Rising Star

GTS4-32

Posted
Posted

i started bleeding it on the weekend, and it was working fine at the start, did it every 30 sec or so, but after about the 3rd attempt it wasnt sucking no more. Tryed everything, just didnt get going again.

Just a quick question, im bleeding the pump and re-filling the pump at the same time, is this correct? Because the fluid doesnt seem to be turning pink in the pump.

Cheers,

Steve.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...