Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Uh, really it's going to save you a lot of money (or, better put, you'll gain money rather than lose it) if you just sell it and buy a gtst.

To properly CONVERT it to RWD, you'll just need to source gtst bits anyway.. Not worth it at all!

Edit: ok I see you said adjust, my bad. If you do mean temporarily, then it's simply a matter of removing a fuse (I don't know specifics), that's if its the same as a GTR, someone who knows more than me should be able to confirm this pretty easily.

Edited by aDrew_C
hey guys im a noob at this.

Is it posible to adjust a r32 gts4 to just rwd?

how is it done?

how much?

whats involved?

cheers

Tone.

easy...buy a switch loom $35

you can register your interest here...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...5207&st=220

i need 3 more names before i do another batch

my car came with a switch, which also came with a problem, i lost my 4wd altogether now. I bought 'Dirtgarage' switch, which i was told it would override the error but it didnt do shit. Would anyone have an idea of getting my 4wd back into action?

Cheers

Steve.

check your fuses, check you have power going to the ets controller, if you have and it still doesn't work, check the flashing led on the ets controller and post back what the code is if you can't get a hold of a manual.

You would be wiser to check the fluid level in the reservoiur in the boot on the rhs. If that is ok you may need to bleed the system as well to get it working properly. That is assuming that the electronics are ok and you have checked the fuse under the hood is OK. It says on the cover which one.

Yea the fuse under the dash and hood is fine, id have to have a look at the comp tommorow. And the fluid in the reservoiur seems to be fine.

You see my confusion comes when i try put 4wd back on its active, but only for about 3secs max, then the 4wd light comes on.

Hopefully its nothing major and i could resolve it myself with your help which btw i appreciate alot, cheers fellas.

Lets assume the electronics are fine though, how would i bleed the system? Sorry newbie with hands on work, jus want to know that im doing the right thing before i go cause another problem.

Cheers,

Steve.

Edited by GTS4-32

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=bleed++attessa

In there is a howto on bleeding attessa.

Make sure you check the fuse under the bonnet as well. The ~3sec delay is normal for the 4wd light to come on if there is a fault.

Fluid good, Bled properly, check fuses, check the led on the ets controller for diagnostic readout.

Well i just had a quick look at the fluid level and condition in the reservoiur, and it seems to be black with a tinge of pink at the top but not much...would that be my problem there? Before i go any further with the investigation.

Cheers,

Steve.

check your fuses, check you have power going to the ets controller, if you have and it still doesn't work, check the flashing led on the ets controller and post back what the code is if you can't get a hold of a manual.

I had a look at the code on the ets controller and the red LED flashes 22 times in 1 sec period then stops and starts again. If i could please get a read out on what that means, be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Steve.

22 is ETS oil level switch or circuit.

You definately have enough fluid in the res?

Otherwise check the res level switch continuity.

If neither is the problem look at wiring harness or controller borked.

Well its just below max..but i will be bleeding it as soon as i can get another pair of hands to help me out and abit of time on my hands. Hopefully thatll solve my issue.

Thanks heaps heller44, uve been a great help. :laugh:

Cheers,

Steve.

  • 2 weeks later...

i started bleeding it on the weekend, and it was working fine at the start, did it every 30 sec or so, but after about the 3rd attempt it wasnt sucking no more. Tryed everything, just didnt get going again.

Just a quick question, im bleeding the pump and re-filling the pump at the same time, is this correct? Because the fluid doesnt seem to be turning pink in the pump.

Cheers,

Steve.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...