Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just stripped down my motor after the standard oil pump letting go. I think some one has already fitted an R33 crank or its a complete R33 motor as it looks like to me it already has the long nose drive.

But the bad news is the crank is stuffed anyway :) to start off with the front pulley was lose and has damaged the keyway. Also when trying to get the front gear off noticed there to be an awful lot of endfloat from the crank. Pulled the crank out and found the thrust bearing rooted. Not sure if it happed when lost oil pressure or it was alredy worn?? as i had only got down the end of the street before i notice the oil light had come on and i switched it off. Anyway now im after a new crank, doesnt matter if its a 32 crank as i alredy have a proengines crank collar which i bought thinking i had a 32 crank already

sorry about the poor pictures, took them with my phone

post-10986-1170505291.jpg

post-10986-1170505334.jpg

post-10986-1170505369.jpg

post-10986-1170505394.jpg

post-10986-1170505422.jpg

post-10986-1170505469.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154710-rb26-32-or-33-crank/
Share on other sites

are you sure its a long nose? just because the flats that drive it look long it doesn't mean the pump engages on the whole thing.

from the photo even though it was a little fuzzy could make out a kind of blue burn mark on the forward tip of the drive flat which looks like about how far the r32 gtr cranks engage on the oil pump.

it's hard to imagine the long nose drive breaking a pump gear unless something was seriously wrong.

ive seen a very similar problem with a motor. but the oil pump was fine.

debris in the crank oil ways can chop a beasring out in no time. all it takes is a tiny scratch on the thrust bearing. and 500k later new crank needed.

what clutch are you using?

if the pully was loose. and you were giving it some revs. that will destroy the oil pump very quicly. especally if your doing over 7k.

this is a good example of what a "lightweight" crank pully can potentally do.

anyway.....

yeah it looked like the pulley had been lose for some time as there ws lot of rust dust around it when i pulled it off. the crank bolt was tight but the pulley was still flopping round on the crank and the key way pin is half the size it should be.

pretty sure the crank couldnt be repired, there was atleast half a centermeter of endflot in the crank. and somehow i dont think that happened when the pump died because the rest of the bearings were no where near as rooted.

Im using nismo gmax twin plate clutch.

And yeah the revs were up there when it let go, was over 7k

Think im going to invest n a ross tufbond balancer as the keywy in the standrd one isnt much good. The ross ones any good? they seem pretty cheap too.

Edited by OFENSV

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...