Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok b4 i start i du know its a wierd idea but would i b able 2 make a custom plenum and fit the carburetor whyle still running the factory ecu faving disconnected the injector signals and afm and oxy sensor etc so its only function is 2 control the timing and tell me what the engine is doing on the factory dial cluster (i dont like big after market dials)

the reason is to try something diff i want 2 try it on a high comp rb25

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154928-carby-on-a-rb/
Share on other sites

its doable with the right tools and carbys.

you'd need to trick the ecu into thinking all the fuel inputs were functioning correctly, eg AFM, TPS, Air Temp sensor etc.

you'd be better off running a microleb or EMS or something

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154928-carby-on-a-rb/#findComment-2884982
Share on other sites

I had thought about getting a RB30e decking the head so you get a 10:1 comp ratio. then putting on 6 throttle bodies from a GTR and retain injection

250 for the motor

300 for the throttle bodies

few $$$ for fabricating

you would need to do away with the AFM and work out some way to read air volume like a MAF.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154928-carby-on-a-rb/#findComment-2894142
Share on other sites

Povo pack GQ Patrol used a carbie RB30, see if you can find one and see how the timing is managed

the gqs use a vacum advance in the dizzy, all the fuel injection stuff bolts up to a gq, so i cant see why the carby gear wont bolt up to a skyline. try looking on some of the 4wd forums you should be able to find a carby manifold fairly easilly, ive threw a couple out over the years.

try http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/index.php

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154928-carby-on-a-rb/#findComment-2897036
Share on other sites

iv tried looking for patrol parts but cant find any i thought they were single cams which would mean the manifold wouldnt fit a twin cam head also this means that the dizzy has nothing to attache to as the single cams dizzy is recessed into the head and runs of the cam shaft

the reason for the conversion is for the revs but also the sound (iv heard that a carby rb sounds insane) and i also enjoy a challenge

regarding the maf sensor i didnt think it affected the ignition. what does it do?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154928-carby-on-a-rb/#findComment-2906068
Share on other sites

my understanding is if your ingition maps come from rpm vs load (afm value) your going to need the afm to figure out when to fire those spark plugs

unless you change your ingition system to something else or you go programable aftermarket managment then you could get load from something else , tps , map sensor

Edited by arkon
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154928-carby-on-a-rb/#findComment-2908639
Share on other sites

so as the air flow increases does the ignition advance or dellay also would it work if i were to confuse the ecu telling it that there is a set ammount (not chanjing) of air entering the engine throught out the rev range (i know hot 2)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154928-carby-on-a-rb/#findComment-2911716
Share on other sites

so as the air flow increases does the ignition advance or dellay also would it work if i were to confuse the ecu telling it that there is a set ammount (not chanjing) of air entering the engine throught out the rev range (i know hot 2)

when load and rpm increase the ecu advances ignition

you could leave it static but it would run like a dog

you could go to a mechanical ignition system (dizzy) if you wanted . these have mechanical systems to advance ignition timing as load and rpm increases usually some sort of manifold pressure advance or wieght system adjusted by rpm

the whole thing is not realy worth it though theres a reason we abandonded carbs and distributors , they are old tech , unadaptable and inefficient .

an rb26 revs to 8500 with ease , how much more revvy do you need ? try and adapt the rb26 head to your n/a perhaps ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154928-carby-on-a-rb/#findComment-2911988
Share on other sites

its funny coming from an AE86 background to listen to this talk of revs!

doesnt matter how big your cams are, how high your compression is or how many throttles or carby's you stick on it: RB30's wont rev high because of their bore/stroke ratio.

you wanna build a tough, hot sounding NA screamer inline six? Slap an RB20 crank in an RB25

Destroke it to 2.4 and use a twin cam head capable of the revs you want.

(or just use a turbo engine you pansies)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154928-carby-on-a-rb/#findComment-2912349
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...