Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey fellas i might just be paranoid but i feel my skyline is not that quick at all, like i do not get any wheelspin on 1st if i take off normally than flatten it,. unless i hook a corner etc or rev dump it.

and cant break traction shifting into 2nd either unless i rev it with clutch in on gear change and let go

what i have a series 1 r33 gtst with turbo back exhaust, 10psi boost, FCD,gtr fuel pump,apexi pod in UAS box, standard side mount/computer/turbo/suspension, 225 nankangs on r34gtt rims

i have put it on the dyno before and got 175kw on a dyno dynamics dyno and about 153 on a mainline dyno

i have changed the spark plugs to new platinums and my coils are in good nick. no missing.... also changed fuel filter oil filter and oil 4000ks ago.

so what im asking is, does this sound right ? or should i be braking traction as i described before???

(i know its not really a good comparison by saying 'break traction' but yeah it gives you a rough idea)

was going to take it to wsid tonight but looked like rain so maybe next week

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

get a water bottle, jumo out of the car, quickly form a puddle of water infont of the rear tyres, roll forward a touch, revs up, dump clutch !!!!! that should do it lol

wait till it rains

You are the first person to NOT want traction :D

I got 18 x 9 with Nankang 265 and i got no traction when i hit second... could also be due to my camber...

Your tyres may be running low in pressure causing them to grip more... make sure the pressure is high enough 35 - 38psi

175 as ryanrb25 says is too low. You won't break traction just with power alone [forget clutch dumps, water, gravel etc] under 200.

At 220-230 you will break in 1st and 2nd, at 250-270 you will break in 3rd, and thats with real tyres 255-275's, not those pizza cutters you have on now......lol

It's all about the shape of the torque curve, as much as the area under it.

The 2wd ECR chassis/drivetrain was more or less intended by Nissan engineers to cover ground/distance quickly and easily for an "average" driver. Lurid smoky corner exits might be spectacular but aren't the fastest...

like i do not get any wheelspin on 1st if i take off normally than flatten it.

and cant break traction shifting into 2nd either unless i rev it with clutch in on gear change and let go

You should at least get a little wheelspin or chirp into 2nd. It depends how harsh you change gears. But taking off normally in 1st and then flattening it? No you won't get wheelspin, unless its wet. Need more power to do that.

If you want even less traction, get some nexen n2000's like i have. Man I hate them!

Yeah it does seem strange, 175kw on 225 nankangs should be plenty to break traction in first.. On nankangs around 100kws should be enough :ninja:

Seriously though atm i'm running similar Kw's to you, with these mild mods...pfc, r34 smic, splitfires, 3" turbo back/split dump, k&n panel filter, bleed valve, exceedy hd clutch with a very conservative tune around the 180kw @ 10psi. I do however have some very nice sticky 265 firestones on the rear as opposed to your Nankangs aKa "the tyre of death" Now with my r33 s1 If I hit the sweet spot shifting to second it will chirp also taking off normally if I roll on the gas as boost hits it will break traction @ maybe 30 kph...dump the clutch you'll sit and spin.

As said by someone above the chassis and suspension dynamics are fairly good even in stock form they do hook up very well and thats what it's all about. If you want to loose traction easier you can either stiffen the ass end up or increase your kw..Having said all of that, with similar power maybe you car is doing what it should and mines too firm in the rear and not hooking up like it should. Mmmmmmmmmm

Heres a thought...you dont have a boot install subs ect (extra weight over the diff)? Although I'm not pushing big kw's my car is a lot lighter than most r33's around with no body kit, big sound system or Hicas to weigh it down and some super light enkies all helping with the power-weight ratio.

So there's a few ideas but as I said I don't think it's a lack of power.

Edited by madbung

I got Maxxis MA-V1 with 255 on the rear, and at 207rwKw and a fat midrange, i get brakeout in first and second on gearchanges, slight corner in secon put the foot down, and sidways is the order of the day.

Midrange is much more important.

175 as ryanrb25 says is too low. You won't break traction just with power alone [forget clutch dumps, water, gravel etc] under 200.

At 220-230 you will break in 1st and 2nd, at 250-270 you will break in 3rd, and thats with real tyres 255-275's, not those pazza cutters you have on now......lol

Depends on how well setup the car is...

270rwkw with decent tyres, a good diff and correct alignment a set of decent 245+'s should hold on 'only just' in second gear. Try on a slight corner and there's no chance.

It also depends on the power delivery, if its a nothing then everything style turbo then yes traction is going to be an issue.

ok so it looks like i am being paranoid...

i was going to see how quick i go down the quarter mile just as sort of reassurance (if i was getting over 15sec id suspect something is wrong)

oh well just gotta keep modifying to make it quicker

thanks for all the info fellas

i got rb25det s1 in my cefiro and i cant get anywhere im first soon as boost comes on they spin n revs fly almost on rev limit in blink of an eye, hard shift in 2nd will spin for bout 5-10 seconds then grip by then you gotta shift anyways and chirp in 3rd with a good shift

mods:

exhaust

pod

front mount

bigger fuel pump

stock boost

coilovers

it wont chirp in 3rd with more boost for some reason kinda feels like it just dies down... lately tho it feels heavier on the road

i also cant launch my car it will either bog down or spin

forgot to add i run falken ziex 235 on rear

Edited by 2gceffy

Its the cars setup. Look at the diff, bushes, camber and tyre quality and how worn the tyres are.. Tyres get hell slippery as they approach 3/4 worn.

There's many out there with double the power some of you blokes are making yet have no issues hooking up through second.

Im running fulda tyres from germany 265 r18s I have 362rwkw they spin in 1st & 2nd & chirp in 3rd so id say it all depends on tyres & how much power you have these fulda im running on rear are a great tyre pretty god dam sticky.

296rwkw with 265's can spin lots in second but if i drive it right i can get lots of power down without wheelspin and definatly does not spin third unless im on a pretty uneven road which you wouldnt be hooning on unless you have written your suicide note with this kinda power

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...