Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Catchcans are just a bandaid for tired engines with a bit of blowby.. kinda like my ol' rb20 :)

Edit: 40th.. I just used a larger radius for the bend or you could try ENZED or something to get some elbows :)

Edited by bubba

In racing you are required by rules and regs to run a catch can that holds a certain litreage. Also they arent there just to catch oil or bad breath from sad motors, perfectly healthy engines still have oil in the head and during corners or even acceleration oil and oil vapour can escape the rocker covers. Every engine has to breathe. A catch can just lets it breathe without feeding contaminated air into turbo/intake. If you want to run it properly/illegally, dont run it into the intake, and put a breather on your can.

  • 8 months later...
Okay, how about this?

DSC_5328.jpg

Better?

SO this last picture is the correct way for running an oil catch can, wat type of oil catch can was used. how many inlets etc, i have a Greddy oil catch can i want to fit soon, was just wondering on this thread if it was the correct way for doing it for an rb25det, anlso was a breather used here? have u had any problems or noticed a difference anywhere? hamish :rofl:

jimmytim man thats a lot of pipe. why dontcha trim it to the correct length? what can are you using btw?

hamish i dont think that a breather is used in this setup. the air is returned into the intake

the last pic is hte 100% correct way of having it

trim down the hose and it will look a lot more neat

also, if i were you i would try to mount it somewhere near the coolant reservoir in the fornt corner of the engine bay.. where you have it now is too close to the turbo and heat + oil is no fun!

ok i have a question. from what i have read in other threads, there should also be a return line from the can to through the PCV valve (relocated) and into the plenum to prevent it from sucking oily air from the driver's side cam cover on idle. does this air have to come from the can? i mean can i run a setup like jimmytim and just have the pcv valve pulling external(underbonnet) air?

ok i have a question. from what i have read in other threads, there should also be a return line from the can to through the PCV valve (relocated) and into the plenum to prevent it from sucking oily air from the driver's side cam cover on idle. does this air have to come from the can? i mean can i run a setup like jimmytim and just have the pcv valve pulling external(underbonnet) air?

It would then be a vacuum leak.

Not sure in the picture of the engine bay - where does the PCV hook in? If the can is venting to atmosphere and the PCV is still attached then its an incorrect installation. Unless you racing the car or there is a reason for excess engine breathing then just leave the factory PCV and rocker cover venting hoses standard as there is no gain on a slightly modified engine, apart from the slight reduction in octane as the oil mixes with the incomming.

post-30915-1194789818_thumb.jpg

the Positive Crankcase Valve is a one way valve, pulling air from the cam cover on idle when the intake plenum pressure is low and closing when intake pressure is high (on boost). the actual valve is in the cam cover itself so ppl usually move it to the plenum and run a hose from the catchcan to it. similar to the one going to the intake pipe after afm. so you have one hose (or 2) from cam covers to can, one to the intake pipe and another thru pcv into plenum. if the pcv is just gonna be sucking can air anyway, does it matter if it sucks ambient air?

i assume no because the hole is small for one and the valve is only open on idle. anyone care to correct me?

When installing my catch can I never blocked off the PCV as its only open on idle so not much oily air will be going in. Only install the catch can on the intake side to stop oily air going through the intercooler. – Same way jimmytim has it.

Like I said if the PCV is drawing in ambient air then it is a vacuum leak. If your still running a AFM then this air is not being accounted for and hence will slighlty lean the mixtures out under vauum condtions. And no the PCV is not only open at idle but all rpm under vacuum.

Just so some of you guys can see, this is how the mechanic set mine up. I do plan on putting to braided lines to the catch can just been lazy.

We also found I needed a breather on the rocker as it was pushing oil out the exhaust.

I also still have the PVC valve connected but again I haven't got a plug made for it, with it still connected it cause a little hunting on idle

and a flutter noise in the exhaust note when just cruising on steady idle (ie 60km/hr)

post-35997-1194837323_thumb.jpg

hey i going to install my catch can as it been sitting on my shelf of parts in the shed for ages, which is a better place to mount the can? i have provided pics. :angry:

Looking at the car from the front, i either going, the left strut tower (drivers side) or the right. howeveer the turbo is on the right in standard position.

so any advice would be good, also should i block the bottom inlet?

post-36645-1194837922_thumb.jpg

post-36645-1194838014_thumb.jpg

post-36645-1194838164_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
    • Yeeeppp, been following a lot of the testing on the latest Xona stuff and there are some mental results.  He also went over 1000hp @ 4 hubs on his Mainline with a XRE6364S (63mm) which was also well into the 20psi range before 4000rpm on a 2.5. Crazy stuff. Fwiw the XRE5964S is basically the modern equivalent of their old HTA3582 - would drive nicely enough on an RB25 or 26, but proven capable of a huge amount of power if you want to spicy with rpm tho even at sane boost levels will make stout numbers 
    • The axels in my R33 seem tired, and have a bit of play in them. I cannot find any new of course, not interested in buying used, but I am looking to see if anyone can identify some cross compatible axles. In the states I have seen suggested for S chassis the J30 axles, however for the skyline (as best I can tell) the lengths are about an inch off (2.5cm) on both sides. R33 my measure L 22" R 24.5" GPT L 22.5" 24.25" J30 L 23.5" 25.5"  so shaft length is probably an inch wider. Not sure if someone has another still remanufactured option besides the J30. I figured worst case I can buy a pair tear them down and swap the center shaft. My other option was reaching out to GSP to see if they cannot piece together a set, since the axle stubs are still manufactured, I wouldn't think it be that hard to find a shaft or make a shaft work. 
×
×
  • Create New...