Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone,

im looking at buying a series 3 R33 GTR, and have just checked out another 98 model. the seller has told me that the series 3 1997 vspec GTR is completely different to the series 3 1998 vspec GTR, beacuse the 1998 model has 'R34 running gear'? is this true?

are there even any changes between a series 3 1997 and a 1998?

the seller has also told me there are only 6 1998 series 3 GTR's in australia? is this true - because ive seen quite a few for sale??

any help would be greatly appreciated - thanks!

Edited by 350z
hey everyone,

im looking at buying a series 3 R33 GTR, and have just checked out another 98 model. the seller has told me that the series 3 1997 vspec GTR is completely different to the series 3 1998 vspec GTR, beacuse the 1998 model has 'R34 running gear'? is this true?

are there even any changes between a series 3 1997 and a 1998?

the seller has also told me there are only 6 1998 series 3 GTR's in australia? is this true - because ive seen quite a few for sale??

any help would be greatly appreciated - thanks!

Same running gear but some late series III came with factory leather seats.

No changes at all in 97+ 98 gtrs. R34 GTRS have a 6 speed getrag gearbox so how can they have the same running gear?

wrxhoon - thanks so much for the info.

the seller told me that nissan werent sure about the r34 yet - so they put some design and technology into the late series 3 GTR's as a trial before the R34 GTR - obviously this is not the case?

hey everyone,

im looking at buying a series 3 R33 GTR, and have just checked out another 98 model. the seller has told me that the series 3 1997 vspec GTR is completely different to the series 3 1998 vspec GTR, beacuse the 1998 model has 'R34 running gear'? is this true?

are there even any changes between a series 3 1997 and a 1998?

the seller has also told me there are only 6 1998 series 3 GTR's in australia? is this true - because ive seen quite a few for sale??

any help would be greatly appreciated - thanks!

The seller is full of shit :P

wrxhoon - thanks so much for the info.

the seller told me that nissan werent sure about the r34 yet - so they put some design and technology into the late series 3 GTR's as a trial before the R34 GTR - obviously this is not the case?

Yeah. That's like how my GTR has 2008 GTR running gear in it because nissan were undecided about how to make cars.

:huh:

hey everyone,

im looking at buying a series 3 R33 GTR, and have just checked out another 98 model. the seller has told me that the series 3 1997 vspec GTR is completely different to the series 3 1998 vspec GTR, beacuse the 1998 model has 'R34 running gear'? is this true?

are there even any changes between a series 3 1997 and a 1998?

the seller has also told me there are only 6 1998 series 3 GTR's in australia? is this true - because ive seen quite a few for sale??

any help would be greatly appreciated - thanks!

the salesperson is a bullshit artist...

i have seen more than 6 98 GTRs myself.

hey everyone, thanks for the info - really appreciate your help :D

i have nothing against the seller, i just also found it hard to believe that there were only six 98 gtr vspecs in australia as ive seen quite a few more than that for sale over the past few months and have watched them drop and drop and drop in price.

he seemed so suprised to hear that i was actually looking at another 98 vspec this friday?

the seller also told me the car has garret N1 turbos - steel wheel - from FACTORY? anybody know anything about this? or is this also questionable?

and i was also told that the car has upgraded HKS suspension from factory - because it has the GTR logo on the top of the shocks. i have heard that this logo was standard?

there are definately more than six 1998 series 3 vspec gtr's in australia.

If he is telling you all this stuff that you have mentioned, it seems that he really wants to get rid of it and you have to question what else he is hiding and what else he is prepared to tell you to make you buy it.

the very late 98 vspecs had leather seats and those are the collectors items that are worth money - apart from this there is no difference, just some sellers believe the 98 is worth more, but this is not the case.

Edited by gts-t_97
hey everyone, thanks for the info - really appreciate your help :D

i have nothing against the seller, i just also found it hard to believe that there were only six 98 gtr vspecs in australia as ive seen quite a few more than that for sale over the past few months and have watched them drop and drop and drop in price.

he seemed so suprised to hear that i was actually looking at another 98 vspec this friday?

the seller also told me the car has garret N1 turbos - steel wheel - from FACTORY? anybody know anything about this? or is this also questionable?

and i was also told that the car has upgraded HKS suspension from factory - because it has the GTR logo on the top of the shocks. i have heard that this logo was standard?

I cant tell you how many 98 v-specs are here, I have no idea . H0ow do you know its a 98 model ? Have you checked the vin? Maybe another bullshit for all you know it could even be a 97?

As for the steel wheel turbos from factory , only N1 cars had them and they are bigger turbos and they have ajustable actuators.

HKS suspenssion but it has GTR? Thats the factory standard suspession that all GTRS have .

Have you seen this car in the flesh ( not pics)?

Here is a pic of what they look like ..

post-5240-1171190544.jpg

hi again wrxhoon,

the car is definately 1998 - i have checked the compliance plate - it is a 02/98 model.

i have seen the car in the flesh, thanks for the info and pics of the suspension - that is the exact same logo.

seems that if i didnt ask you guys, i might have paid more for mods that came as standard on a gtr!? :D

i will ask the seller again - maybe there is another explination and he meant something else?

Edited by 350z

im backing out of any thought of buying the car because when i called the seller it didnt quite turn out the way i expected. he just ended up giving me a lecture and kept talking as though every other vspec gtr is NOTHING compared to this car - then snapped?

he hadnt even seen the other GTR's i have been looking at - and was already putting them down, telling me that the sellers are dodgy (sellers which he doesnt even know)

in the end he ended up telling me that if i cant realise that this is a genuine 98 vspec series 3 tuned to n1 spec from factory - then i dont deserve this gtr.

and i guess i dont because i havent even heard of them being tuned to n1 spec from factory? he was saying that his car is even fatter then every other standard vspec gtr?

i just thought there was a vspec, then the N1?

but thanks to all for your help everyone - really appreciated, but looks like im going to have to keep shopping (which sucks because i really wanted to work out a deal on this one :D

Edited by 350z

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...