Jump to content
SAU Community

Help With Electrics?

One Three

By One Three,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted

Is your alternator alright? It should be sending roughly 14.4volts to your battery and electrical system to run everything. Also, there's usually a regulator on the alternator which kinda controls how much charge is going out from the alternator so as not to over-juice your car's electrical system. That could also be causing problems.

The third thing, there's another fuse box inside the car - pull out your coin tray on the RHS of the steering column, and there's a fuse box hidden behind that with a bunch of standard blade-style fuses there. i can't remember if there's any there which may sort out your problems, but it might be worth a check...

Silverback Community Regular

Silverback

Posted
Posted

Have had the exact same problem before. I cleaned the inside of the battery terminals with sandpaper to remove the hard crust that forms from the oxidisation at the terminal. That fixed it for a while, but then the problem resurfaced. I then pulled the other plug that sits on the positive terminal and gave everything a good go with the sandpaper. Hey presto, no more problems. I used to work at a battery fitting specialist earlier in life, and you would not believe how many people came in to us after spending hundreds on new alternators, electrical components etc. You could see that the battery would be in clean enough condition, but the hard surface that forms after a couple of years can stop the energy flow from the battery. Of course, when you checked it with a battery tester it would come up fine.

I'm not saying that there might not actually be something else wrong, but start the search for the problem at the source & you could potentially save a bit of cash..... and thats gotta be a good thing!

Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
Posted (edited)

Heres a helpful hint that I got from an auto sparky - if you have that green fuzzy looking gunge on the terminals, the very best way to get rid of it is boiling water. Just boil the kettle and splash some on before you take the terminals off and it will disappear like magic. :mellow:

Edited by newbie101

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...