Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Please tell me what to modify and why i should modify it. Im looking for a decent amount of power around 300ish. doeas anyone know the 1/4 time and 0-60 with 300HP?.Help me out here guys!!!! teach me the ways and give me the knowledge :P

Edited by CalgaryGTS4

Hey mate, i have a friend with a gts4 and he got sick of the poor performance from the RB20, within two months he was buying a half cut of a GTR and fitting all the parts from that himself.. What a weapon it is now. A few simple mods to the RB26 gave 12.1 sec quater mile times.. But thats just my opinion, not everyone can afford that option...

Hey mate, i have a friend with a gts4 and he got sick of the poor performance from the RB20, within two months he was buying a half cut of a GTR and fitting all the parts from that himself.. What a weapon it is now. A few simple mods to the RB26 gave 12.1 sec quater mile times.. But thats just my opinion, not everyone can afford that option...

How much would that run me Hp wise and Cash wise????

mate. instead of asking this. why not look through alot of the threads on here. believe it or not... in the last 5 years of these forums... 99.9% of the time someone else has gone through what u are going through now and has made a thread about it :P

How much would that run me Hp wise and Cash wise????

Im unsure on what a front cut is worth these days $5000-up maybe.. High flow turbos 2nd hand, and EMS ECU, maybe $3000.. As for hp he makes 370rwhp on 14psi..

Ok well no offence the guys who tell him to go search the forums .. thats time consuming and a forum is here to ask questions, Yes might have been asked before but cant hurt twice..

Now seems you have a GTS4 R32 ?? Suppose your looking into engine mods depending what your doing ..

My first choices would be Twin dump, High flow 5" body cat, 3.5" exhaust 4" cannon, FMIC, (im assuming its a GTS-T?) and PowerFC if you can find one .. If not remap the stock ECU .. That should square you off at $3000ish.. Including installtions .. Powerfc or remap is essental and Id suggest the straight through exhaust too .. FMIC is optional but if your going to tweak your boosts id suggest it going into higher PSI

Hope it helps .. Ofcourse you'll want to look at gauges, Boost controller and get a really nice tune too!

Just for kicks after that Id hit up new Injectors, or used flow tested etc.. about 550's new fuel - pump bosch 080? Hit up a new turbo and boost it sky high .. again hoping its turbo .. concidering your avatar is a turbo id assume so

Ok well no offence the guys who tell him to go search the forums .. thats time consuming and a forum is here to ask questions, Yes might have been asked before but cant hurt twice..
For the newbies we have this thing called "answers for things asked for the 100th time thread" aka > Stick Threads < :)

It pays to learn how to use the Search button properly...and yes there's even a thread on how to use it as well.

Just for kicks after that Id hit up new Injectors, or used flow tested etc.. about 550's new fuel pump bosch 040...
:P Edited by pkblade
hahah can u take out those abreviations on that mod list and tell me what they are hahah im kinda a noob still :)

FMIC = Front Mount Intercooler

ECU = Electronic Control Unit

Edited by pkblade

ok i see you have updated ur profile

r32 gts4

here my list

here we go

Aftermarket Ecu

-Apexi PowerFc $1000-$1500 (if you can find one)

Fuel Pump

-Nismo/Tomie $350

Injectors

-Nismo 740cc $800-$1000

AFM

-Z32 $300-$350

-Z32 Plug (can use an aus spec r31 afm plug, or buy the tomie one) $15-$30

Intercooler Kit

-Greddy M-spec $600-$800

-Greddy V-spl $1000-$1400

Turbo

-Stock Rb25 Turbo (from r33 or r34) $500

-HKS GT-SS $2000

there are just some examples,

NOTE: THIS DOES NOT INC LABOUR OR TUNING!

Tuning cost - $400-$600

Also Other mods i would consider!

Aftermarket Clutch

-$600-$2000 (depending on type, starting from the cheaper end Exedy Clutch, to then going to something like a hks or orc twin plate)

Coilovers

-Hks/Tein etc etc $1500 - $2000

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...