Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyhow, i've just got the 11.5k i sold my R32 for and i don't mind spending some or all of that on the engine of the R32 GTR i'll be buying (it's not going to be a track/circuit car, it'll be lowered (a bit) with 19's and a nice paint job)

Anyway how much will a rebuild cost me? I'm not talking rebuilt to standard i'm talking rebuilt to safe and to make some extra power. I can spend from $6-10k on the rebuild but i don't want overkill.

Obviously a 10k rebuild will be alot better than a 6k one, but as it's a street car and i don't have huge power req's then i don't know if it's worth it.

Anyway, 350 at all wheels would be cool but i don't know how power relates to 1/4 and 0-100 times on a r32 gtr, maybe someone could break it down a little (as i said it won't be very well set up (suspension, tires) for drag) e.g. 300awkw 350awkw 400awkw 450awkw (yeh, i know, dreaming)

Then there's the matter of turboes and in that respect it would be great if a rebuild only set me back $6k because then i could spend the remaining 4 on a big turbo/s, whereas if it cost me all 10k i would have to run the standard ones for a while (which i don't think i would want to do on a freshly rebuilt engine) while i saved $ for the rest.

Also for power-potency-money ratio am i better getting one big t04z or should i just get some 2530's and be happy (or some twin R33 high flows) assuming that any bigger than these my engine won't handle on a $6k rebuild.. Actually after looking at 2530's on other r32 gtr's it seems they'll be to small for 350awkw and i'm looking at around 300 max yeh?

Also what supporting mods will i need.. So far i am guessing a Z32AFM a fuel pump and maybe a pressure reg, remapped ECU? (dunno if they are re-mappable) otherwise a powerFC or equivalent (wolf3d?)

and i'm hoping standard fmic will be ok (bad experiences with fmic swapping)

I would get the rebuild done at a performance shop that i trust, and would get a parts breakdown to know that everything i need is in the package.

Keep in mind that while i know how an engine works i have no idea of what little things make up bigger things and also no idea of what power - accel ratio 32 gtr's have nor the actual build prices, as i've never owned one and never had a car rebuilt before.

Cheers

Edited by r32 gts-turbo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156186-rb26-rebuild-turbos-suggestions/
Share on other sites

just quickly.....2530s will make a crap load more than 300rwkw. Theyve been known to make over 500rwhp

and GT-SS kits have made over 320rwkw on numerous occasions

have you looked at the rb26 performance thread stickied at the top of this section?

Have a search for 'PnBlight' and see what he has achieved with the 2860 garretts that are a lot cheaper than new 2530s

hope this helps re: turbo choice

Ah really, i wasn't sure, although come to think of it 2530's can make 230rwkw on a gts-t, and thats about 80kw more than stock so i calculated 310awkw on a gtr, didn't measure the fact that it was a far better tuned 2.6 litre hehe.

I thought i read somewhere that the 2530 wasn't being made anymore (eh) so i was looking at 2nd hand ones, but i guess i was wrong, mm, i bet new ones would cost a shiet load, i had a look through the performance thread but i didn't have any idea what kilowatts i would be wanting (as i don't know the correlation between kw's and accel) i'll look pnblight up cheers mate

Hmmm his dyno graph = broken unfortunately, and i don't think he had those turboes on at the time

700HPGTR got 260.3kW @7183RPM on 1.4bar boost (20ish psi?) but he didn't mention a rebuild so maybe the engine was a lil tired.

Edited by r32 gts-turbo
Ah really, i wasn't sure, although come to think of it 2530's can make 230rwkw on a gts-t, and thats about 80kw more than stock so i calculated 310awkw on a gtr, didn't measure the fact that it was a far better tuned 2.6 litre hehe.

I thought i read somewhere that the 2530 wasn't being made anymore (eh) so i was looking at 2nd hand ones, but i guess i was wrong, mm, i bet new ones would cost a shiet load, i had a look through the performance thread but i didn't have any idea what kilowatts i would be wanting (as i don't know the correlation between kw's and accel) i'll look pnblight up cheers mate

Hmmm his dyno graph = broken unfortunately, and i don't think he had those turboes on at the time

700HPGTR got 260.3kW @7183RPM on 1.4bar boost (20ish psi?) but he didn't mention a rebuild so maybe the engine was a lil tired.

HKS GT2530's are still available new

I've just rebuilt my rb26 last year mate, using 2530's with forged pistons and n1 gear works great and capable to make over 500rwhp

check my threads iv made alot of info there in the wa section

id budget around 10-15grand for decent gtr built, the crank is 1200, ecu 1500, clutch 2k, theres 4700 on 3 bits

10-15 is a lil ouchy, but sort of what i was expecting

Does anyone pre-build RB26's? Like so you can buy an already rebuilt one and drop it in? And also what kind of kilowatts will an rb26 rebuilt to standard spec with standard (though new) bits in it handle? (r34 RB26 for example, as it's new and would be low K's)

i think the best thing to do is search all the questions youve been asking here and have a good read up on the capabilities of the rb26 in standard and built guise.

youll get a lot more information that way compared to posting here cause people dont feel like constantly repeating themselves all the time.

as nick was saying, nengun sell new 2530s.

just jap are selling n1 crate engines for $13000 or something

Actually i did a search and i couldn't really find that much. I searched for RB26 rebuild and most of the topics were just comparing cranks and stuff like that, none really had prices or expected power, and the rb26 topic is good but i don't know how power equates to accel on a rb26.

I'll have a look around on google for pre-built engines, thx

(also how much power = 1/4? 350kw = low 12's?)

Oh and what will a fresh GTR 33 N1 handle power wise? Like i'm assuming a 10k rebuild will handle more than a 13k n1 engine

Edited by r32 gts-turbo
Actually i did a search and i couldn't really find that much. I searched for RB26 rebuild and most of the topics were just comparing cranks and stuff like that, none really had prices or expected power, and the rb26 topic is good but i don't know how power equates to accel on a rb26.

I'll have a look around on google for pre-built engines, thx

(also how much power = 1/4? 350kw = low 12's?)

Oh and what will a fresh GTR 33 N1 handle power wise?

That depends on what turbo hardware you have bolted to the side of it, and how its tuned.

You have the advantage with an N1 engine of every single part and component being brand new, not to mention the N1 block

the stock internals are strong for the rb26's and if not thrashed I guess they could handle 300rwkw and with that power 11's are achievable. Maybe just replacing some important parts and getting areas checked might be the way to go to save some money, possibly pistons, head gasket, crank tested, turbo's ?

I know the stock rods are strong

High octane offer rebuild kits also horepowerinabox.com

Edited by monga

Whoa 300rwkw equates to possible 11's? Maybe i won't need a really expensive rebuild to satisfy my need for speed then, specially if a good nick rb26 can handle 300rwkw

Thats awesome! thanks

Edit: just had a look on that site, they've got a basic upgrades with basic engine components for 2900 or one which includes

Venolia Pistons

Nissan N1 rings

REVS conrods

Nissan Gasket set

Tomeii Head and manifold Gasket sets

Tomeii Sump Baffle ---<< eh?

Hi Octane Rocker cover Baffles --<<< eh?

for $6k :D assuming it'd take about 8 hours to do the work and 80 an hour so allow around 1k for the install.. Then Powerfc and a N1 oil pump, Z32 AFM, i could have a decent rebuild for like 8kish that i'm assuming will take 300rwkw alright

Althought i don't know what the sump baffles or rocker cover baffles are (sounds like i probably wouldn't need to upgrade these though??) are they to stop oil being thrown around too much or wa

Edited by r32 gts-turbo

Sump baffles...stop all the oil flopping around the sump and keeps it around the pickup so you dont get oil starvation, If the engines out its a good mod for peace of mind. Espeically if you want to go around corners. The N1 engines that JustJap sell would be more than capable of handling the potential of the 2530 or some 2860-5's. It doesnt sound like you want to break any records so that might be a way to go. No muss no fuss, but i'm sure you can get more for less if you dont mind organising the job and doing some research. Your budget doesnt mention block or crank prep, fuel pump, oil pump, injectors, tuning and your going to want cams. Dont rush into it. Good luck

That's a good point, i didn't think much of supporting stuff, thought the GTR injectors would handle it, guess i better budget another $700 for decent injectors (700cc?), i will probably just put a bosch 040 pump in and a N1 oil pump (as i hear they're great), didn't think of cams either (wasn't quite sure with the newer engines if it's worth replacing as i know the VCT works well) spose i'll have to look into some

What block prep would you be talking about? I assumed the stock block (if in good nick) would handle up to 350kw? and by crank prep i assume you mean balancing it, right? or will it need to be replaced/coated in something

That's a good point, i didn't think much of supporting stuff, thought the GTR injectors would handle it, guess i better budget another $700 for decent injectors (700cc?), i will probably just put a bosch 040 pump in and a N1 oil pump (as i hear they're great), didn't think of cams either (wasn't quite sure with the newer engines if it's worth replacing as i know the VCT works well) spose i'll have to look into some

What block prep would you be talking about? I assumed the stock block (if in good nick) would handle up to 350kw? and by crank prep i assume you mean balancing it, right? or will it need to be replaced/coated in something

I would suggest you have a serious work up of what you will need for your outcome. The dollars run up very quickly.

As a guide (my current experience) here are some numbers on a basic smarten up on a GTR, without internals being touched, to get into the power/time arena you are talking about.

PFC + EBC - $1350, Tomei sump baffle - $280, 700 cc Sard inj - $680, GT2860-5 Turbs - $2200, Gasket kit - $380, Hoses - $400, Adj Cam wheels - $140, oil cooler - $600, Fuel pump - $200, clutch (JB Special) - $850, pipes - $1000, Timing belt - $150. There goes +$8k not including labour and the engine has not been opened up as yet.

Hope it helps

That's a good point, i didn't think much of supporting stuff, thought the GTR injectors would handle it, guess i better budget another $700 for decent injectors (700cc?), i will probably just put a bosch 040 pump in and a N1 oil pump (as i hear they're great), didn't think of cams either (wasn't quite sure with the newer engines if it's worth replacing as i know the VCT works well) spose i'll have to look into some

What block prep would you be talking about? I assumed the stock block (if in good nick) would handle up to 350kw? and by crank prep i assume you mean balancing it, right? or will it need to be replaced/coated in something

RB26's don't have VCT.

If you decide to do a rebuilt of an RB26 you should be looking at a minimum of $6k including R+R engine . I don't like your chances of a $6k built though, I'm sure it will cost you more unless you do some work yourself.

This is for a basic rebuild not including head work ( but including basic reco), cams, cranc, etc...

On the top of this you have to allow for turbos, computer, injectors, AFM's, EBC, I/C pipping kit, maybe dump pipes, front pipes , cat, catback exhaust , cams , cam gears, tune and list goes on and on, clutch and depending on what you want to use the car for, upgrade cooling system and brakes.

You dont have to do much to a healthy GTR engine to run 11 second 1/4 mile so if you bought one with a good donk just leave it in there . Get a set of GTSS turbos ,injectors, maybe AFMs, power f/c, ebc, full exhaust, maybe a clutch and your goals are met very easy, don't worry about power numbers. Enjoy it like that and when you blow it up do a rebuild and by then you will want more power.

If you are worried about spending money on the car DONT modify it at all and even then you are at risk buying an old car .

I have run 11.8 @ 118 mph in my car with just GTSS turbos, ebc(1.1 bar), power f/c, 550 injectors, front pipes and a catback in a car that weighs 1580kg with the aid of a 6 speed box and a NIsmo twin plate , the weight advantage of a 32 or even 33 makes up for that.

GT-SS are quite cheap on Nengun at the moment (was a little while ago at least) and they will have more response than the 2530's but less top end power, but if its for an out and out street car i know id want the response.

I was gonna build my GTR before i sold it and would of had the GT-SS over the 2530's all day everyday.

As someone else said in this thread and wrxhoon put it into time figures, they can make ya 320awkw's with the right supporting mods and run an 11 if your a decent driver.

Ah, ok, but these engines are known to randomly blow up (unlike rb20's) and u can never trust the K's on them either, its on average about 3k more for one just after import to aus that has lower k's (wound back but assuming not as much driving was done overseas).. Is there anyone on the site who's bought a 32 GTR and ran stock internals with some 2860's or gtss turboes and not had it let go? Anyone who's has lasted 2 years+?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...