Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

run a 4" dump pipe and turn it down to 3.5" at the bottom of the firewall.

the gate needs to plumbed back so as to cause minimal interference to the flow of the exhaust.

ive got a pic somewhere of one i recently plumbed back, ill dig it up

Cool. Thats what im looking to do. Though 3.5" may be as big as i can get in there. Imalso going to branch it in on the upstram of the bend in the inner radius so the flow that will be causing friction as it flows around the bend isnt casuing turbulence in the branch

wtf that waste gate is welded in the turbo crazy.....

Not really, a lot of people do it, more when lowmounts are done and there isnt a lot of room to move.

Troy, just back off as you come past the EPA test point, one sec later get back into the loud pedal. :closedeyes:

holy shiet!!! my external gate is plumbed back and i have a full 3 inch exhaust with destroyed cat and one muffler. will there be a benefit for me if i make mine atmo instead of plumb back?

Its highly possible there would be a gain.

You wont know till you pull it off, depends on your exhaust, if its restrictive or not

my 45mm gate was atmo.. The cops pulled me up and we had a VERY loooong talk about it!

Luckily they didn't know what they were looking at, and I got away with it!

Its plumed back now, but I had a few boost issues for a while. My screamer was a 42mm pipe.

so i just joined it up near the cat. but boost was creeping very fast even on low boost.

then I went to a 50mm. It holds on low boost now. I put it down to the fact that the

gate does more work on low boost, and the extra gas was just too much for the smaller pipe.

ohh, I put a flex joint in the WG pipe, but i keep cracking the manifold

at the collector where the WG pipe feeds from.

I will be fitting a brace between the dump pipe, WG dump and engine VERY soon!

something to be mindful of..

Edited by psi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...