Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i feel like my skyline is losing power (its nonturbo so it doesnt have much in the first place lol), how can i tell if im right? what are some signs i can look for or listen for?

i tried gunning it pedal to the metal, didnt even spin the wheels... i was like wtf, i flat foot it and it just feels sluggish, doesnt make any funny noises, wat can i do to get the power back?

all i can think of is, clean the airfilter or replace it? any other suggestions, i service it every 6 months at mobil

but i duno man help me out thanks fellaz.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156391-signs-your-engine-is-losing-power/
Share on other sites

I wouldnt expect an NA 33 to spin the wheels during in gear acceleration (straight line). Unless its wet, in 1st or 2nd.

They are not a fast/powerful car. A commodore/falcon has more power. Maybe you are just getting used to it.

Fuel filter, air filter, check for flow through the cat (may be blocked) or any exhaust/intake restrictions. AFM clean also.

Get it compression tested, Get it seviced and check all filters, Oil filters, air filter etc etc.. Make sure no obstructions in exhaust i.e dints, cuts bumps and if that all fails take it to a mechanic and ask him to spin it up .. if he thinks it drives like shit get him to find the issue

each to their own but i wouldn't be too concerned about it, what id do would be put up with it and save some coin until you can replace it with a DET. if you dont want to do that then it could be a number of things...you also have to face the facts that its a 1400odd kilo car with a na 2.5lt in it, its not meant to be a fast car.

thanks fellas, i know its not a powerful car but im on my p's, 2 more years til im allowed to drive turbo, so i have plenty of time to save up... so excited. dw i aint gona do nothing stupid, i know to many people that have and are lucky to be alive. fun is for the track, main roads are for going from a to b.

Alright then "useful" not "usefull"

And you didn't even bother giving the lesson.

Speaking of said lesson. Are you sure you should be giving it? as you did not use a capital letter for the start of your sentance.

There is no need to get so anal about spelling on a car forum. Grow up.

Alright then "useful" not "usefull"

And you didn't even bother giving the lesson.

Speaking of said lesson. Are you sure you should be giving it? as you did not use a capital letter for the start of your sentance.

There is no need to get so anal about spelling on a car forum. Grow up.

Ha!

I'm not the one who is about to burst into tears..

Edited by Driver

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...