Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry if you took it to personally but have you done a 2jz conversion on a skyline?

Have you built motors?

How much experience do you have with rb's or even 2j's for that matter?

What do you do for a living, is it automotive based??

10-15k on a rb hybrid to make the same power is that besed on the fact you own a part store, or have sone these engines before?

This forum is over run by people who make statement sbased on there own opinions and no real experience (what they have read or the mates have told them) and by people who are not remotely qualified to make stupid generalisations , which is basically what this entire thread is....

Sorry to say it but it grinds my gears that theres is endless arguement about unqualified statements such as "2j head is shit" or "rb30's arent a race motor" etc... Its almost to the point where you most people with true knowledge (not saying myself by any stretch) are turned away cause they are sick to death of the dribble.

Just read my thread looks like I am having a massive go at you, sorry mate, not my intention. Seroiusly though all i ask for is when people make statements they qualify there statement with experience and genuine facts that is all, sure it is a discussion forum and people have a right to opinion and heresay, all people need to do though is make it clear when this is the case!!!

Edited by Fitzpatrick Speed Works

$4,500 for a 2J

Then the gearbox. Priced the good 6 speed boxes for a 2J, they're nearly that price again.

Then get all new mounts and everything made, and then, since it's not the original motor in the skyline, around another $1000-$1500 or so for an engineers cert.

I'd be assuming the 6 speed box for the 2J has now come down from 6G (Where it was around 3 years ago) to a price of around $4000

So that's $8 500 JUST for an engine and gearbox, no mounts, nothing, not even in the car, you haven't even put a new turbo or anything on it.

So, looking at $9 500 basically (Excluding labour and engine mounts) to put a 2J in your R33.

You said $10 000 to $15 000 for an RB26/30 combo? I'll go a 26/30 combo then. As for $10 000 - $15 000 that's all new turbo, manifolds, injectors, etc, whereas, your 2J is still on stock turbos.

He's got a choice - spend well over $10,000 on a RB26\30 or spend less than that for a motor that can do the same, standard setup.

You can get a well built bottom end be it rb25/26 or 30 for around 3k. Drop in a set of forged pistons and rods, thats bumps the price up to 5k. Cams and springs, 6.5k. Add an ati balancer - 7.5k.

Unsure with the 26's but the 30's have issues with more than 7500rpm when making 700hp, the stock girdle needs beefing up.

I know of a 2jz that just let go with ~450rwkw. Smashed ring lands. :)

It is thrashed daily, especially on the weekends.

I bet that wasn't the engines fault...

Well, I had no idea that the person wanted to purchase the engine to put into a skyline.

But unless the car is already a GTR, there is still a lot to do fitting wise.

Edited by The Mafia
I bet that wasn't the engines fault...

Well, I had no idea that the person wanted to purchase the engine to put into a skyline.

But unless the car is already a GTR, there is still a lot to do fitting wise.

It was fine for months and months prior..

Just one of those 'street' things. Could have been poor fuel + the weather is a touch warm etc etc..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
×
×
  • Create New...