Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry if you took it to personally but have you done a 2jz conversion on a skyline?

Have you built motors?

How much experience do you have with rb's or even 2j's for that matter?

What do you do for a living, is it automotive based??

10-15k on a rb hybrid to make the same power is that besed on the fact you own a part store, or have sone these engines before?

This forum is over run by people who make statement sbased on there own opinions and no real experience (what they have read or the mates have told them) and by people who are not remotely qualified to make stupid generalisations , which is basically what this entire thread is....

Sorry to say it but it grinds my gears that theres is endless arguement about unqualified statements such as "2j head is shit" or "rb30's arent a race motor" etc... Its almost to the point where you most people with true knowledge (not saying myself by any stretch) are turned away cause they are sick to death of the dribble.

Just read my thread looks like I am having a massive go at you, sorry mate, not my intention. Seroiusly though all i ask for is when people make statements they qualify there statement with experience and genuine facts that is all, sure it is a discussion forum and people have a right to opinion and heresay, all people need to do though is make it clear when this is the case!!!

Edited by Fitzpatrick Speed Works

$4,500 for a 2J

Then the gearbox. Priced the good 6 speed boxes for a 2J, they're nearly that price again.

Then get all new mounts and everything made, and then, since it's not the original motor in the skyline, around another $1000-$1500 or so for an engineers cert.

I'd be assuming the 6 speed box for the 2J has now come down from 6G (Where it was around 3 years ago) to a price of around $4000

So that's $8 500 JUST for an engine and gearbox, no mounts, nothing, not even in the car, you haven't even put a new turbo or anything on it.

So, looking at $9 500 basically (Excluding labour and engine mounts) to put a 2J in your R33.

You said $10 000 to $15 000 for an RB26/30 combo? I'll go a 26/30 combo then. As for $10 000 - $15 000 that's all new turbo, manifolds, injectors, etc, whereas, your 2J is still on stock turbos.

He's got a choice - spend well over $10,000 on a RB26\30 or spend less than that for a motor that can do the same, standard setup.

You can get a well built bottom end be it rb25/26 or 30 for around 3k. Drop in a set of forged pistons and rods, thats bumps the price up to 5k. Cams and springs, 6.5k. Add an ati balancer - 7.5k.

Unsure with the 26's but the 30's have issues with more than 7500rpm when making 700hp, the stock girdle needs beefing up.

I know of a 2jz that just let go with ~450rwkw. Smashed ring lands. :)

It is thrashed daily, especially on the weekends.

I bet that wasn't the engines fault...

Well, I had no idea that the person wanted to purchase the engine to put into a skyline.

But unless the car is already a GTR, there is still a lot to do fitting wise.

Edited by The Mafia
I bet that wasn't the engines fault...

Well, I had no idea that the person wanted to purchase the engine to put into a skyline.

But unless the car is already a GTR, there is still a lot to do fitting wise.

It was fine for months and months prior..

Just one of those 'street' things. Could have been poor fuel + the weather is a touch warm etc etc..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...