Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I posted this with the Cube Thread as it will get deseminated quite quickly with the amount of people reading it and has relevance for various reasons....

Some people need to realise a few things before they join the band wagon, and buy a Cube or any of the other new models appearing on the schedule as they must be thinking lets jump the gun and be the "FIRST" in Australia with them, or think this industry looks easy (due to resurgence in new models) I might give it a go.

  • Would you buy a few cars 12 months ago in Japan just to do a story on them.
    Sit them in storage hoping they will get on the schedule then import them.
    Spend thousands of dollars in testing hoping they pass as ADR 79 can cost over $30,000 itself.
    After testing go through even more expense with other requirements to gain approval.
    Cover the costs for staff, equipment, facility's, test cars and the list goes on.

Then you just go to the rest of Australia here you go leach off me and everything I have done over the years so I can go broke well you are in for a surprise don't bother as it is to late.

Some RAWS have closed down and others are selling up now, also the NEW RAWS GUIDE from DOTARS will cause various ramifications to the industry including more expenses and the stricter set of rules, looks like it will be easy for DOTARS to police and is due to the bastardisation of the industry.

Read the RAWS GUIDE and see what I am talking about with how the industry will have to react them self and when it comes to looking after their customers property this is a point everyone one will be happy to see.

Remember this is only a personal view of what me and Google think.

Its quite an overview.

Have you read all 92 pages, lol?

  • Replies 508
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 1 month later...
I always knew - the bB and the cube would be a hit in oz for one reason or another.

They will do all right once approved which will take a while due to emissions other wise only pre 10/2003 can be complied (as per M35 Stagea). So more then likely a 12 month time frame and they will be approved but if someone thinks sooner please tell me what they are smoking.

Even the Y34 which has been in Australia for quite a few months now hasn't completed emissions so will look at 6 months minimum once it passes the last test for the ADR's so 6 to 12 months on that.

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

http://vehicles.dmotorworks.com.au/ssv/sea...&Submit.y=9

that is a car yard that i know has one cube but not to sure about pricing or anything on it. give them a call and find out they are located in melbourne

Comments

NOW AVAILABLE IN AUSTRALIA!!!!! COMING SOON, THE FUNKY NISSAN CUBE WITH AMPLE INTERIOR SPACE, AND A GREAT LOOKING BODY KIT WITH ALLOYS. CHECK OUT OUR WEBSITE AT WWW.SOUTHERNSPECIALVEHICLES.COM.AU FOR MORE DETAILS, OR CONTACT THE OFFICE ON 03 9543 3722. BE THE FIRST TO DRIVE THIS LITTLE GEM.

i think the key here is the "coming soon" part

the images are japanese auction images

I think they are just gauging interest...

maybe a bit of misleading(or bait) advertising?

i dont see any way that this car yard could get them in and on the road before the govt has finished compliance testing.....

if they have managed to i want to know how! lol

Edited by Android 360

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...