Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 138
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah its pay before mainly to keep commitment, the other reason is to get 15% discount.

Dan, ill get details to you tomorrow for direct deposit. Anyone else wanting to pay that way i will give details.

Alternatively for those who prefer to pay in cash, i work in osborne park. So feel free to drop by during working hours.

R Dirty 3 (Thats me) and wife PAID

God Thrilla and Mrs Thrilla

Dan the Man PAID

Pulp and Girlfriend PAID x2

Tigeryas (Date pending) CONFIRMED. PAID

Mr Keets PAID yes, Paid!!! So we have him confirmed for this event!

Gts-t Vspec PAID

Nizmo PAID

Chainfire PLUS 1.

342Four UNCOMMITED TEAM MEMBER!!!

Sam Kids are allowed, so you can come

StageaGirl, Mitchy and Jnr PAID

R34Maniac and Chaffeur (he has to drive the beamer )

Topaz and Girlfriend PAID

This is who has and hasnt paid. Everyone on this list still coming??

When did we need to pay by again Brad?

And was it $12 each with the group discount?

I will add my Girlfriend to the list as she wants to come...

Payment would be good before about the 16th so it can be paid in full to get discount.

With discount it is $10.20 per person.

Girlfriends are welcome to come. The more the merryer.

GTS-T Vspec, Ill confirm your paymetn tonight when i get home.

Thanks .

Myself and my girlfriend are still coming, might need to transfer the money to your bank account brad since i probably won't have time to come around and see you this week.

No worries. Ill send you DD details tonight if you like.

Are my tyres bald yet??? :P

No worries. Ill send you DD details tonight if you like.

Are my tyres bald yet??? :)

Nah they arn't bald yet, haha. My turbo broked last week so i can hardly get the wheels to spin anyway :) not that i try to or anything..

Still need to get my car rego'd for WA havn't had time yet. hoping to have it done by the end of the week, and then you can have your rims and my car back.

By the way i can't get that cracked rim fixed, it's well buggered. Would you still be interested in buying the other undamaged rims off me? i'll need a whole new set, unless i can source one of those rims from somewhere.

Nah they arn't bald yet, haha. My turbo broked last week so i can hardly get the wheels to spin anyway :P not that i try to or anything..

Still need to get my car rego'd for WA havn't had time yet. hoping to have it done by the end of the week, and then you can have your rims and my car back.

By the way i can't get that cracked rim fixed, it's well buggered. Would you still be interested in buying the other undamaged rims off me? i'll need a whole new set, unless i can source one of those rims from somewhere.

Not Bald YET??? lol Im in no hurry for them back. I have 4 sets of stock wheels now (I am cornering the market lol )

PM sent about your rims.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...