Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have brand new pairs of OFFICIAL GT (perfect for skylines) white LED T10 lights. Hard to get a hand on these.

These are perfect for replacing your old yellow parker lights and give an amazing sharp white look because they have a CONCAVE lens and divert the light EVERYWHERE.

These LEDs can fit into parker lights, some map light, number plate lights, luggage compartment light and boot light as well.

Selling $19 a pair + $2 postage Australia wide. If you buy more then one pair postage is free.

FROM TUESDAY THE 6th TO WEDNESDAY 14th ONLY $15 A PAIR

PM me if you want a pair or more.

PLEASE LEAVE YOUR SAU USERNAME AS THE BANK REFERENCE WHEN MAKING DEPOSIT!!

Pick up also available in Melbourne (Wantirna South)

Here is what the blue and white pair look like in my R32:

white02xa2.jpg

62614174up4.jpg

Edited by pablo101
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I have a heap of bright white T10 led's which will fit your parkers. I'll sell them for $25 a pair including postage. PM me.

I also have 1 or 2 pairs of phillips silver vision T10's which are also bright white, they give off a different kind of light compared to the LEDs. Ill sell these for $20 posted. PM me

These globes also fit in for the rear number plate light and look awesome compared to the yellow shit.

  • 2 weeks later...

The blue colored ones look good but the cops dont like them. But you dont have to just use them as parker lights, these LEDs can fit map light, map light, number plate light, side indicator, luggage compartment light and boot light as well.

Thats why I sell the white ones. The law says that white and yellow are fine.

Edited by pablo101
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...