Jump to content
SAU Community

Cooler Piping Keeps Blowing Off When I Hit Any Boost

DjeMz

By DjeMz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

DjeMz Mentor

DjeMz

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey all

now my cooler piping is all good n sweet, but is it just me, of that pipe that goes to the cooler (just under where i circled).. isnt that a blitz BOV pipe???

That stainless steel bit that i circled (I know theres a clamp missing in the photo, thats coz it keeps breaking), what can i replace it with that wont keep poping out when i hit boost? The pipe is too short, so i got a longer pipe made out, but still because that blitz bov pipe thing is so darn loose, it keeps poping out :S

I was going to try this, but thought id ask sum1 first..

1. Get STRONGER clamps

2. Cable tie the intake cooler pipe to that one i circled by the clamps (so the cable ties don't melt)

3. Not go insane.

OR,

Just change it with a stock pipe???

Sorry if its a bit confusing, in a bit of a rush

:)

Cheers

post-30963-1171934939.jpg

Edited by DjeMz
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

1) better clamps

2) weld a lip/ridge around the edge of each pipe so the clamp actually has something to grip onto

If they both wont work, then your pipes have too much weight pulling on them/pushing which probably isnt helping

DjeMz Mentor

DjeMz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Where can i get stronger clamps?

I paid $6 each for the ones i got now (supposed to be EXTRA HEAVY DUTY from autobarn... pft), i only bought 4 for that area, and 2 of em snapped when i tightened them.. T

psybic Proficient

psybic

Posted
Posted

oh man... i have battled with cooler pipes for months at a time on two different cars now.

hard spots that that too!!

u need to have a few dots welds on the end, or flange the pipe out a bit. either way. make sure its long enough., u said u already have, so the beads or flange is the answer now.

breaking clamps.... hmmmm, never heard that before... sounds dodgy....

Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
Posted
Autobarn... problem right there.

Places like Enzed, Purple Pig, Pirtek, they are the places to see for decent clamps :)

agreed with above... or go and see mack trucks... or someone that specialises in truck parts, their clamps are gold, and as ash said about welding the lip around the edge if it dont have em already...

Autobarn = Lowest value for money :laugh:

Lazy-Bastard Grand Master

Lazy-Bastard

Posted
Posted

Ummmm.... why is there only 1 clamp on the silicone joiner you have circled?

If that is how it is configured normally, I'm not surprised it's blowing off. There should be a second clamp there.

As others have said, go to a truck parts supplier, they have proper heavy duty T-bolt hose clamps

12DFY Collaborator

12DFY

Posted
Posted
If you are only using 1 clamp on that pipe like Lazy-Bastard said then that will be your problem (obviously)

He said that it is only missing in photo due to breaking regularly. You need to get hold of aviation style clamps, they have a band aroun 15-20mm wide and use a 10mm bolt rather than the shit arse little screws. About 4-5 bucks each but guaranteed never to snap again....

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

Obvious answer. redo your pipe work, your's is dodgy. You have 2 extra joints in that photo alone.

Unless you are running 20+ psi of boost heavy duty clamps are not needed, worm drive clamps are sufficient. I'd suggest that as your engine rocks it is putting strain on the pipe and pulling it off, or you don't have a lip on your piping and it is being blown off under boost.

Ricos Collaborator

Ricos

Posted
Posted

had a similar problem...every time i hit boost the pipe would swoosh off....

then i took the pipe right off and relized that i left the WD-40 on the end of the pipe that i used to put it on with in the first place....once i cleaned it all off the thing has never flung off since....dont laugh it was a blonde moment :O

DjeMz Mentor

DjeMz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Obvious answer. redo your pipe work, your's is dodgy. You have 2 extra joints in that photo alone.

Unless you are running 20+ psi of boost heavy duty clamps are not needed, worm drive clamps are sufficient. I'd suggest that as your engine rocks it is putting strain on the pipe and pulling it off, or you don't have a lip on your piping and it is being blown off under boost.

Car is running just over 20psi...

Can anyone post a pic of what pipes are MEANT to be there with e hybrid intercooler?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...