Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

So many questions, hoping to get some opinions on the best diff/s I can get for my circuit tuned R32 GT-R.

I had a standard torsen in the MX-5, loved it, getting the tail out was nice and predictable but it always snapped back in quite violently. My mates Cusco 1.5way in his MX-5 was a lot better all around.

I've heard I need to replace 2 of them in the GT-R. I'm just unsure of what to get. Any opinions and experiences would be greatly appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157199-best-diff-for-circuit-tuned-gt-r/
Share on other sites

my opinion. 1.5 way rear. 1 way front. as for brands, I think the cusco diffs are quite good and at around $1200 or so not bad price wise either. from memory the only difference between the MZ and RZ is one of them has springs to put preload against the clutches and the other type uses conical washer type things at each end of the stack to acheive the same end. difference in price is about $80 between them with the spring type more expensive.

well the stock front diff is nothing fancy. but the rear diff is a pretty good thing for track. it's already a 2 way mech. the only thing that varies is the condition it's in which will obviously affect it's performance.

cheap way out would be buy a front 1 way, and get the rear rebuilt, and re-shimmed with a little more preload on it, but I know mine is already quite tight and will spin up the inside wheel with tight, slow turns.

I was looking for a similar sort of thing.

With regard to the one way fronts there are actually four options (I think).

Type RS (low initial torque)

Type MZ (Initial torque created by the cone plates)

Now both of these come with either 35 or 45 degree cams.

So what does it all mean. Dunno. But I would think an RS would be preferable?

Well that is fair enough. A two way will give you some push understeer on turn in. In a GT-R this is probably last to very last on the things you want to have. Hence the 1.5 way at the rear.

On the front I was of a mind that the more gentle in transition the better off you will be. Maybe I am wrong in that - they don't seem to torque steer, so maybe a more sudden cut in will be ok.

My original diff wore out, it was turning the inside tyre on the slow corners at corner exit.

I ended up putting in an ATS 2-way, then it became a drift machine.

Got the front transfer case modified and now it works great.

The only downside is when driving around at slow speed the rear end vibrates from the inside tyre turning at the same rate as the other, similar to a locker. Not that noticeable on street tyres...

Front diff is stock...

Would anyone consider a Quaife front diff (torsen type) and a 1.5 way Cusco / ATS clutch-pack type in the rear? That way you can get the progressiveness of a torsen LSD in the steering end, with a positive clutch-style engagement in the rear?

Or would that just unbalance the car?

That is assuming that Quaife makes a front diff for the GT-R.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But seriously, can we ask for the results of the "tip a bottle of metho into a nearly empty tank" experiment?
    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
×
×
  • Create New...