Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well after watching this, it seems to have a manualised auto transmission, bcoz it shifts up gears so smoothly, and when under breaking into corners he revs it up to change down gears. also i dont think the engine sounds like a v8 like it says on that site. doesnt sound throaty enough to me.

sounds tough, it would be running the gearboxes similar to what they run in all the new lexus's and bmw's i reckon...auto sequential but with a decent manual override function that auto rev matches and paddle shifts. Cant wait to see it when its released!!!

  • 8 months later...
it does sound like a v8 i reckon.....and there is one stage in the video where he comes into a corner and u can hear quite loud turbine spool....worth a listen :)

well, somebody was wrong aye lol didnt sound like a v8 to me at all, now its released seems i was right. oh well guess i have an ear for things like that.

i hate the body, its lost the unique Skyline aesthetic now it just looks like another Euro S car. not that they look bad but its a shame to see such a great shape lost to mediocrity of these new rich-boy-toy mobiles.

i would still own one if i could afford it though :mellow:

New GTR

Engine: 3.8L bi-turbo V6

Power: 353kW @ 6400rpm

Torque: 588Nm @ 3200-5200rpm

Transmission: 6-speed double clutch automatic; constant all-wheel drive

Performance: 0-100km/h 3.7sec, 308km/h top speed

Economy: 8.2l/100km (Japanese test figures)

Nissan claim: 7min50sec laps time on the Nurburgring's Nordschliefe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...