Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guy's,

im thinking about this bottom end as a swap for my blown up vlt,

i have a rb25 and this bottom will be going on it,

does this sound ok?

forged pistons by cp or ross

new gudgoen pins clips moly ring's

block bored an honed & chemically cleaned

new welsh plugs,rod's shot peend closed an honed arp hight strength rod bolt's,

full acl race series bearing kit reco oil pump

crank linished, new seal's with a ratio of 9.1

what do you think this would be worth and how much would thisd handel?

thank's heaps

evan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157373-ur-thoughts-on-this-bottom-end/
Share on other sites

so that list is everything thats in the new bottom end you want to buy?

how many k's or new? sounds alright i guess, how much power you aiming to hit it with? you might wanna make sure everythings there before you buy

It isnt getting brought, it is getting swapped from a company, it has recept's and photo's of everything that will be going into the engine, as i have said i am swapping for a blown up vl turbo,

how much do you guy's think this be worth?

hey guy's,

im thinking about this bottom end as a swap for my blown up vlt,

i have a rb25 and this bottom will be going on it,

does this sound ok?

forged pistons by cp or ross

new gudgoen pins clips moly ring's

block bored an honed & chemically cleaned

new welsh plugs,rod's shot peend closed an honed arp hight strength rod bolt's,

full acl race series bearing kit reco oil pump

crank linished, new seal's with a ratio of 9.1

what do you think this would be worth and how much would thisd handel?

thank's heaps

evan

if you were to build that bottom end, and you already owned the block,

you would get change out of $2000

if you pay any more then this you need to find a new workshop.

its a stock rebuild with forged pistons and thats it.

if your VLT motor has bits worth more then $1500 that are still usable, then dont do it

theres no mention of the crank being balanced to suit the new forged oversize pistons, so if that hasnt been done it will struggle to rev past 5k and will rattle itself to bits.

Why would you reco a oil pump when a brand new N1 is only $400

sounds dodgy..

Darren

reco oil pump? what!

cps yes,(they come with pins)

billet rods.

n1 pump with collar

9:1.

standard main and head bolts.

head clean up mild cams.

thats what i would concider a reasonable build without busting the bank

ok thank's for this, was going to swap tomorrow,

so really if im going to swap what should i ask for in this bottom end?

an in the head i just basically want it rebuilt with new cams springs an make sure all is good, befor even thinking about fuel and bigger turbo,

but this bottom end has me thinking he might be taking a lend of me and getting a cheap vlt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...