Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guy's,

im thinking about this bottom end as a swap for my blown up vlt,

i have a rb25 and this bottom will be going on it,

does this sound ok?

forged pistons by cp or ross

new gudgoen pins clips moly ring's

block bored an honed & chemically cleaned

new welsh plugs,rod's shot peend closed an honed arp hight strength rod bolt's,

full acl race series bearing kit reco oil pump

crank linished, new seal's with a ratio of 9.1

what do you think this would be worth and how much would thisd handel?

thank's heaps

evan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157373-ur-thoughts-on-this-bottom-end/
Share on other sites

so that list is everything thats in the new bottom end you want to buy?

how many k's or new? sounds alright i guess, how much power you aiming to hit it with? you might wanna make sure everythings there before you buy

It isnt getting brought, it is getting swapped from a company, it has recept's and photo's of everything that will be going into the engine, as i have said i am swapping for a blown up vl turbo,

how much do you guy's think this be worth?

hey guy's,

im thinking about this bottom end as a swap for my blown up vlt,

i have a rb25 and this bottom will be going on it,

does this sound ok?

forged pistons by cp or ross

new gudgoen pins clips moly ring's

block bored an honed & chemically cleaned

new welsh plugs,rod's shot peend closed an honed arp hight strength rod bolt's,

full acl race series bearing kit reco oil pump

crank linished, new seal's with a ratio of 9.1

what do you think this would be worth and how much would thisd handel?

thank's heaps

evan

if you were to build that bottom end, and you already owned the block,

you would get change out of $2000

if you pay any more then this you need to find a new workshop.

its a stock rebuild with forged pistons and thats it.

if your VLT motor has bits worth more then $1500 that are still usable, then dont do it

theres no mention of the crank being balanced to suit the new forged oversize pistons, so if that hasnt been done it will struggle to rev past 5k and will rattle itself to bits.

Why would you reco a oil pump when a brand new N1 is only $400

sounds dodgy..

Darren

reco oil pump? what!

cps yes,(they come with pins)

billet rods.

n1 pump with collar

9:1.

standard main and head bolts.

head clean up mild cams.

thats what i would concider a reasonable build without busting the bank

ok thank's for this, was going to swap tomorrow,

so really if im going to swap what should i ask for in this bottom end?

an in the head i just basically want it rebuilt with new cams springs an make sure all is good, befor even thinking about fuel and bigger turbo,

but this bottom end has me thinking he might be taking a lend of me and getting a cheap vlt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...