Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alrighty, so I threw my car on the dyno at the start of this month, and it rattled off a nice and imppresive 248RWHP (185.3RWKW) on 10/11PSi, with a 3" full exhaust, FMIC, pod filter with custom air box and a 35degree day

Now, most would be happy with this type of power, BUT, there's a hole in my fun, as follows:post-31588-1172385881.jpg

As you can see, there's a bit of a torque hole!

Now, I took it to my trusting mechanic at Wollongong Motorsport Centre (Same place it got dyno'd) and we decided to have a look around at things, first up, the CAS ISN'T a standard R33 GTS25T CAS. Weird.

Secondly the ECU map for ignition and fuel, is different from stock. (We hooked up Consult)

So now, I've gotten the shits, I want that extra power, I don't want a pinging motor, so I'm ordering in a new aftermarket ECU to install later, but, curiosity is killing me, and I want to know what part has been changed in my ECU. So, I'll throw some more pics up of inside the ECU

Please note, no matter which way the CAS was moved, the power got worse.

post-31588-1172386230.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157971-ecu-been-fiddled-with-but-where/
Share on other sites

It's sitting too lean for stock map, and actually VIEWING the maps and comparing them side by side with stock maps, they are vastly different.

Way too much ign timing I have been told.

That's on good 98RON fuel too, and each time the graph dips, it is pinging.

Edited by MBS206

Well, if there's pinging, the ECU retards doesn't it?

It has the sensors for that reason and i thought that's be the answer.

Also, remember they self learn too..Mine had to re-learn for 10mins driving after changing the dump pipe. I thought i was screwed as it was behaving really bad! and then it all came together.

Just get the Power FC before you waste any cash at the mechanics. That'll solve all your probs

1) I'm not touching a PFC.

2) The cars been like this for ages.

3) Theres a difference between permanent base maps, and self learn trim maps.

Secondly, new aftermarket ECU is being ordered in around a week and a half fingers crossed!

Sorry if I'm sounding rude, but all of this has been gone over, and zero money has been sent on chasing things. I'm just trying to find out what has physically been changed inside the ECU.

And yes it does have the sensors to remove timing to avoid pinging, but the problem is, it can obviously make the power, it's been tuned to make more power and torque, but the thing I want to know is, WHAT has been changed? :S

I'm not after changing it back really, I just want to know what the people have changed, as mid rang and low range has a shit load of torque.

But yes, new ECU coming soon.

Well put a genuine stock ECU on and see what happens.

Alternatively use a genuine CAS aswell.

Its possible to remap the stock chips, it justs isnt feasible here in Aust where prices are not really worth it

Are you SURE that your tuner has the stock maps?

Use consult and download the maps, and post up an image of the fuel and ignition map.

If the ignition timing drops off to about 8-9 degrees at the end colum for where the ecu hits rich and retard, it's the stock map most likely

it's a stock ecu... end of story.

edit: as for the comparitive lean running it could be a number of things. poor fuel pump, AFM problem, injector problem, O2 sensor problem (used for the reading) etc. or just I have seen some cars do run lean with the stock ecu and increased boost. it happens.

the torque hole is so typical of the standard ecu based airflow limiter settings in the ecu.

i will agree however, those afr aren't to bad for a stock ecu at all, usually once you see that torque dip where it cuts ignition you will see the afr go down to 10's.

could just be the pump on its way out or other cause of low fuel pressure.

It hits 24degree ign timing on the map on consult. No 8 or 9 degrees.

I'll get them and download.

When it hits the 24 degrees ign timing, it pings on the dyno (And road) and retards out, but not via the map.

Yes the stock map has 24deg of timing at 5600rpm in the 2nd highest load column.

The dyno curve is very much typical of a standard r33 ecu. The engine is obviously pinging quite badly and the ecu is savagely reducing the timing when it detects knock.

Naturally advancing the base timing via the cas will only make the problem worse. Reducing the timing will of course lose some power but will go some way to fixing the problem.

Any competent workshop who has worked on a few r33's should be aware of all this.

Edited by TSL

Supposedly it's pretty much well been changed from what I've been told.

And the timing was already sitting where it was meant to be supposedly.

Ah well, hopefully this weekend I can throw the full aftermarket ECU in, depending when I get it delivered.

Then I'll keep all posted on the power and progress.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
×
×
  • Create New...