Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just looking at options for brake pads to run in our Targa car and these pads seem to have cropped up in my search.

Car is an S15 which we will be running R32 GTR calipers on the front and brembo's on the rear (brembo's we had up front don't fit under standard rims which we have to run for Targa).

Will also be getting new rotors, what are peoples recommendations here? DBA4000's? 5000's?

Ive heard these pads heat up a fair bit so im guessing alloy hats will aid in cooling somewhat.

Any suggestions are welcomed.

Cheers

Tim,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158154-ferodo-ds3000/
Share on other sites

Yeah Tim the 5000 series aren't available, just go DBA4926.

DS3000 maybe a bit too much of a race pad? DS2500 might be ok, just depends how much he uses the brakes.

I have Hawk HT10's which are good. Howard at Race Brakes Melbourne would be a good bloke to chat to. RB74 front, comp 2 rear?

Make sure he uses Motul RBF600, Penrite 600 or any Dot4/600 brake fluid!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158154-ferodo-ds3000/#findComment-2939695
Share on other sites

As people have said, DS3000s near a fair amount of heat into them before they work. Depending on how long the transport stages are between competitive stages you might start off with no brakes for the first few corners of every stage

I'd suggest DS2500s, especially at first. They generally survive a full practice session / sprint race without fade, and they're pretty much on from the get-go. Especially now that you've got uprated calipers.

As for rotors, I'd suggest against DBA's. I've seen too many crack (including my own) to trust them in a motorsport situation. They're not cheap, but I hear nothing but good things about Project Mu hardware (pads and rotors).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158154-ferodo-ds3000/#findComment-2940189
Share on other sites

As people have said, DS3000s near a fair amount of heat into them before they work. Depending on how long the transport stages are between competitive stages you might start off with no brakes for the first few corners of every stage

I'd suggest DS2500s, especially at first. They generally survive a full practice session / sprint race without fade, and they're pretty much on from the get-go. Especially now that you've got uprated calipers.

As for rotors, I'd suggest against DBA's. I've seen too many crack (including my own) to trust them in a motorsport situation. They're not cheap, but I hear nothing but good things about Project Mu hardware (pads and rotors).

Funny you should say that, i have heard the same about DBA's but not seen it in the flesh.

Yes I have done a bit of homework since and come to realise that the ds3000 don't operate well from cold (although they crap on about having really good initial bite?).

The Driver doesn't like DS2500's either so we'll be scrapping the idea of Ferodo's.

Looking into Project Mu now, Titan HCs sound ok with an operating temp from 0-800 or thereabouts. Time to hit up some sponsors me thinks :happy:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158154-ferodo-ds3000/#findComment-2940393
Share on other sites

Looking into Project Mu now, Titan HCs sound ok with an operating temp from 0-800 or thereabouts. Time to hit up some sponsors me thinks :D

Have you thought about SBS ceramic or carbon ceramic? They certainly seem to handle high temps. A bit light on for low-temp bite, but not as bad as a DS2500 in that area.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158154-ferodo-ds3000/#findComment-2940433
Share on other sites

As people have said, DS3000s near a fair amount of heat into them before they work. Depending on how long the transport stages are between competitive stages you might start off with no brakes for the first few corners of every stage

I'd suggest DS2500s, especially at first. They generally survive a full practice session / sprint race without fade, and they're pretty much on from the get-go. Especially now that you've got uprated calipers.

As for rotors, I'd suggest against DBA's. I've seen too many crack (including my own) to trust them in a motorsport situation. They're not cheap, but I hear nothing but good things about Project Mu hardware (pads and rotors).

My project MU SCR rotors and Titan HC pads are doing a great job at the moment, can't fault either of them. Well worth the money in my books.

MR30: With the DS3000's, when they say initial bite they are referring to the pad once they're warm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158154-ferodo-ds3000/#findComment-2940472
Share on other sites

Have you thought about SBS ceramic or carbon ceramic? They certainly seem to handle high temps. A bit light on for low-temp bite, but not as bad as a DS2500 in that area.

I knew there was one more brand that I couldn't think of! My mate Brad is the state distributor for these, says good things about them too. Offered me some to try in my car for the track.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158154-ferodo-ds3000/#findComment-2940680
Share on other sites

My project MU SCR rotors and Titan HC pads are doing a great job at the moment, can't fault either of them. Well worth the money in my books.

Agreed, type hc+ pad and scr pro rotors are fantastic on my car. ok when cold, fantastic when warm, very confidence inspiring.

And r32gtr rotors are available too :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158154-ferodo-ds3000/#findComment-2942552
Share on other sites

Yeah Tim the 5000 series aren't available, just go DBA4926.

DS3000 maybe a bit too much of a race pad? DS2500 might be ok, just depends how much he uses the brakes.

I have Hawk HT10's which are good. Howard at Race Brakes Melbourne would be a good bloke to chat to. RB74 front, comp 2 rear?

Make sure he uses Motul RBF600, Penrite 600 or any Dot4/600 brake fluid!

1/ Howard at Race Brakes is a TOOL!!

2/ RB74's are good till they fall to pieces at about 50% wear. Have a close look at Ferni's avatar, those are sparks flying off his brakes at a track day. The pads had more than 50% left and should have lasted a few more track days, but they crumbled to pieces, leaving Andrew with a big repair bill.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158154-ferodo-ds3000/#findComment-2942580
Share on other sites

BTW - I totally disagree with anyone that says DS3000's need to be "warmed up". I think they would be a perfect Targa pad and they are what I'd use if (should I say when! :D ) I do a Targa.

I use them for the Dutton Rallies and they are quite often a 1 stop event and they pull up on that one stop as good as anything I have used AND are still great on the longer track events.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158154-ferodo-ds3000/#findComment-2946743
Share on other sites

1/ Howard at Race Brakes is a TOOL!!

2/ RB74's are good till they fall to pieces at about 50% wear. Have a close look at Ferni's avatar, those are sparks flying off his brakes at a track day. The pads had more than 50% left and should have lasted a few more track days, but they crumbled to pieces, leaving Andrew with a big repair bill.

1/ Dont hate the bloke because he tells you things you dont want to hear. He knows plenty, i have found he is a great guy to deal with...He can talk though , and talk, and talk :D

2/ I used RB74 pads for years and still use Race Brake pads on the rear of my car. I found their Comp 9s to be equally as good as the DS2500s that everybody raves about. They make good pads. I never had a single problem with RB74 pads in the 5 years i used them. Sorry to hear about Ferni, and maybe shouldnt have happened....but one or two exampls of something happening in hundreds, maybe thousands sold doesnt mean anything.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158154-ferodo-ds3000/#findComment-2946803
Share on other sites

Funny you should say that, i have heard the same about DBA's but not seen it in the flesh.

Is a picture close enough?

my350z_20060306_crackedrotor.thumb.jpg

I had a mate with an S15 that cracked 2 sets of DBA 5000's. Both didn't last more than a few months. They wouldn't offer him a warranty replacement on the first since he used it on the track (even though he'd bought the "track configuration" set, and reminded them of that little thing called the Trade Practices Act). They did offer him a warranty replacement on the second set pretty quickly, though, since he told them he wanted a refund.

He got his refund, and put them towards Project Mu rotors. They haven't cracked.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158154-ferodo-ds3000/#findComment-2946904
Share on other sites

Now problems with DBA rotors does seem a lot more common. I never had a problem with my old DBA4000s (324mm). They travelled a total of around 75,000-80,000kms including numerous track days.

I now have a new set of DBA 4000s on the front. I know plenty of ppl that use the 4000 & the 5000, some of these cars happen to be very quick to boot and no problems.

But i have also seen plenty of photos of cracked DBAs so????? Is it the fact that ppl scream out of the pits and dont warm them up? Maybe they dont cool them down? I dont know...but its a worry as my new rotors look like the ones above that are cracked. I look at the little slots from the circumference and think "Wow what a great place for a fracture to propogate from" :no:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158154-ferodo-ds3000/#findComment-2948494
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...