Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, now i have read a whole heap of forums and so forth, but i need to know how to dignose a blown head gasket, ie the easies way to do so.

At the moment, the car does not use water, does not produce white smoke, no oil in watter or vice verso.

MY has this funny stumble when cold, like it only runs on 4 cyliners and then clears it's throat and then runs fine on 6 and idles well. IT only does this first start in the morning when cold.

PLEASE

Edited by WogsRus
Hi guys, now i have read a whole heap of forums and so forth, but i need to know how to dignose a blown head gasket, ie the easies way to do so.

At the moment, the car does not use water, does not produce white smoke, no oil in watter or vice verso.

MY has this funny stumble when cold, like it only runs on 4 cyliners and then clears it's throat and then runs fine on 6 and idles well. IT only does this first start in the morning when cold.

PLEASE

Hey WogsRus , my brother inlaw is a mechanic and showed me a few trade tricks when looking at a car to buy and one happened to be warming up the car and then removing the radiator cap while running ,be carefull it doesnt blow hot coolant everywhere and if the coolant has bubbles or froth coming through into the radiator means you are going to have head gasket probs or other issues involving the head which usually means big dollars ,if your buying a car like that good way to get $1000's of their asking price!

Thanks guys, well i did that the trick with the Hot and cold radiator, the watter does not blow up from the radiator, no bubbels, no watter use etc etc.

The reason i am paranoid, is that in the morning if the car has been stanging overnight, it stumbles to start, it starts first go, but has to kind of clear it throat, before it idles nicely.

I have new plugs in it, fuel fulter was replace 5k ago. It has new oil, and air filter, and a full service recently.

I am going to pull out the AAC valve tonight and reclean that to ensure it is nice and clean. ALso somehow check the cold start valve.

I am suspecting that my injector might be leaking or something, hence the fluffy start. What is the best brand of injector cleaner that you guys would recomend?

Id say its got a dribbling injector. one way to find out is put a fuel pressure gauge on it, when you turn the engine off quickly block off the fuel lines so all the pressure remains in the rail, if it drops still then its more than likely leaking out an injector. I wouldnt bother with the injector cleaner in the tank, take it to a workshop and ask for a carbon clean. Or put up with it untill you decide to go bigger.

Thanks guys, well i did that the trick with the Hot and cold radiator, the watter does not blow up from the radiator, no bubbels, no watter use etc etc.

The reason i am paranoid, is that in the morning if the car has been stanging overnight, it stumbles to start, it starts first go, but has to kind of clear it throat, before it idles nicely.

I have new plugs in it, fuel fulter was replace 5k ago. It has new oil, and air filter, and a full service recently.

I am going to pull out the AAC valve tonight and reclean that to ensure it is nice and clean. ALso somehow check the cold start valve.

I am suspecting that my injector might be leaking or something, hence the fluffy start. What is the best brand of injector cleaner that you guys would recomend?

The cold start stumble is common with R32's especially. I've seen them do it with bran new injectors.

Its just a gremlin that can be tuned out with an aftermarket ecu. Generally slightly richer mixtures around the 400rpm load points 4-8 from memory OR richer cold start cranking ms.

if your still concerned about headgasket (albeit doesn't sound like it), get a leak down test done. You have spent a bit of coin with Kutzie so im sure he wouldn't mind taking the time to do this (if he has one).

Hay guys got a quirrie.

So when hot, i opened the cap, no bubels, but the watter slowly came up to the top of the brim an dthen back down again, and it just keep doing this.

Also with the cap on, there is a noise towards the back of the engine, it sounds like a rat, like watter hitting a hot objest and evaporating, but different, more of a rat chewing on a cord sound. Once i undo the cap, the sound disapears, but then once back on it reaperas after a while.

The car is not using any oil or anything, but it just does not run thesame. It is using heaps of fuel. It feels like it is making heaps of noise and not going anywhere.

I need to replace the exhaust manifold gasket as it is leaking, but i am not sure how much this has to do with it.

It also is popong a lot and backfiring, but was only at the tuners last week.

HEEEELLLPPPPPP????????????????

OK doing some tests.

I unpluged the fule pump, to ensure that fuel does not dribble, injectors are dry.

Undid the Radiator cap, to ensure the no pressure in system. Resetting the computer and will see what that does.

But still nothing on the water fornt. LOL.

I figured why the car makes a racket and goes nowhere. The exhaust gasket is leaking like a sive. So hence why my boost is harder to get.

OK well so this morning, after running the car empty of fuel last night in the fuel rail (pump off car cranking and fired up) and the cap of the radiator to stop any pressure into the block.

THE Car still started like crap. DAM IT. i dind't get a chance to clean the AAC, but that seams to work ok, once the stumble has disapeared.

I primed the lines, waited for the pump to go off, and blupp, blup blup, cough, cough, vroom 1200rpm. ONLY WHEN COLD IN THE MORNING DAM IT.

I have almost rulled out the head gasket, as it never uses water, not a drop, no bubbles ect.

So i checked the plugs and this is what they looked like, ALL THE SAME, i also put some REDLINE FUEL CLEANER SI-1 as i have had so many good reviews about it, but have only done 50km sinse that was done, so see how it goes.

SO WHAT THE HELL IS IT.

What is the best test for vacume leaks, i have sprayed arround with carb cleaner, nothing.

What i was thinking, is getting my smoke machine, yess i have one, putting the smoke in the cooler piping, through the turbo, basicaly where the AFM is, and pressurising teh system to 15 psi with an air comressor, that way the smoke will give me an indication of any leaks.

I am loosing so much fcucking sleap over this car, i just want it to run right. COME ON.

HELP ME before i sell it.

post-27760-1172696987.jpg

post-27760-1172697010.jpg

post-27760-1172697030.jpg

post-27760-1172697046.jpg

post-27760-1172697058.jpg

post-27760-1172697081.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...