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Bosch Fuel Pump And Skylines

R33silverS2
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R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

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Recently i had a new Bosch 040 installed in my r33. When the car is running it runs good and fine. But starting the car especially after a longer period couple of hours or so and the car just cranks and wont start up. If i tap the accelerator pedal it will start. and if i turn it off then start it again it will start but the initial time you turn the key it cranks and cranks - I assums this is to do with the new pump and possibly its pick up. Anyone experienced these issues with the Bosch Pumps before in a skylne? More importantly anyone experienced it and managed to fix it??

Any help would be much appreciated

Thanks guys

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158406-bosch-fuel-pump-and-skylines/
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R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

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as long as i wait for the pump to prime the system the 040 is fine in my 32

Yeh it is fine if i prime it for a few secs i.e turn ignition key to on and wait a couple of secs then turn over. This is kinda annoying though as i would like it to feel like stock and just turn the key from off when you get into the car. I'm thinking maybe a one way valve in the fuel line could help possibly cos it doesn't seem to hold pressure when the car is switched off for a bit.

R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

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exactly the same problem - mine needs light throttle to start. Are you using the standard fuel pump wiring?

I assume so, I didn't put it in myself but the mech / tuner didn't mention anything about new wiring.

R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

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hey fellas just wondering if it is easy fitting the "040" in ur R33's cause i just orderd one and i want to give it ago.....and is it just a straight swap?

It's not a straight swap like the nismo ones etc, you will require some bits and pieces to make it fit.

jinkz Enthusiast

jinkz

Posted
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what kinda of bits and pieces? i thought u just swap the pump like take the old pump off its bracket and put the other one it?

It's not a straight swap like the nismo ones etc, you will require some bits and pieces to make it fit.
R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

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The is a turorial on the bosche pump in the diy section, it should explain it there. I am not totally certain on what exact parts you need but you will definately need them to adapt it to your car. The parts should only cost like 20 - 30 dollars or so.

jinkz Enthusiast

jinkz

Posted
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yeah i already read that that guy had a kit all in one he didnt by things spearate

The is a turorial on the bosche pump in the diy section, it should explain it there. I am not totally certain on what exact parts you need but you will definately need them to adapt it to your car. The parts should only cost like 20 - 30 dollars or so.
  • 2 weeks later...
psi Experienced

psi

Posted
Posted

This mite help you poor buggers out!

My best mate had the same problem for weeks in his VL turbo with the 044.

After MANY hours of hair pullin I found the problem.

On his VL, he had to remove a fitting from the intake of the pump to fit a

different barbed fitting to fit his fuel line.

In the bosch fittting is a one way valve! When you turn you car off,

the fuel slowly looses pressure and drains back into the tank.

Makes sence! Now, My tuner said that he has a few drama's with the standard one way valve

with high fuel flow applications and guys have removed them to get more flow.

Then this problem arrose. sometimes they do leak pressure as well!

That help?

  • 3 weeks later...
T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
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its a 040. thats the problem. they just dont work in skylines. the fuel heats up and the cavitate and drop off pressure. untill yoy stop and re start then it does it again.

also the bosch pumps dont work with the hi/low fuel pump switching voltage. just put a walbro or direct replacement nismo/hkss one in

  • 9 months later...
R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

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its a 040. thats the problem. they just dont work in skylines. the fuel heats up and the cavitate and drop off pressure. untill yoy stop and re start then it does it again.

also the bosch pumps dont work with the hi/low fuel pump switching voltage. just put a walbro or direct replacement nismo/hkss one in

Hmm it's really annoying as you can see i still have the same problemo, however, the car only struggles to start after its been for a drive then switched off and returned to about an hour later - engine bay still very warm / hot. I have been thinking it might be an electrical thing or a sensor of sorts because starting it in the morning is fine, as long as you prime the pump before hand. Yet when engine is warm after an hour or so, regardless of the priming it just cranks and fails, but then will start next go... So it feels like there is no fuel at first and by the second time you try and start it the fuel has been sucked into the lines... But what i am trying to work out is why this only seems to happen an hour or so after the car is driven, a combination of heat and time. I can understand if the fuel drains away over time, hence then i need to prime it before starting, but i cant get why it doesn't work when the engine is hot... :(

note though: starting immediately after switching off the engine or after 10, 15 mins or so is fine, and will turn over as it should.

htial Grand Master

htial

Posted
Posted

Could fuel temp also cause this problem???...

When you're driving around the lines heat up a bit and the fuel expands... ...park it and walk away and be back in an hour and everything has cooled down and the fuel contracts in the lines...

I only mention it because my father would have a problem like is in his LandC' that had larger fuel lines and larger pump than stock... ...But you'd be driving around for quite a while, like a few hours without stopping, and it would be a bigger problem in winter...

R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

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Could fuel temp also cause this problem???...

When you're driving around the lines heat up a bit and the fuel expands... ...park it and walk away and be back in an hour and everything has cooled down and the fuel contracts in the lines...

I only mention it because my father would have a problem like is in his LandC' that had larger fuel lines and larger pump than stock... ...But you'd be driving around for quite a while, like a few hours without stopping, and it would be a bigger problem in winter...

Something like that sounds plausable, bcos it feels fuel delivery related, and only happens an hour - 2 hours after a decent drive...

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