Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My bonet has etched mark on it, apparently was resprayed before I bought it. Also a few deep stone chips.

The body stripe also reveals that the left rear quarter panel may have been resprayed as well as the passenger doors.

Also a deep scratch 8cm long in the boot, not easy to touch up.

I also want to put in Type-M factory option front bumper + side skirts so it goes......

- $800 for fitting front bumper and side skirts and paint within this week...

- $1400 to repaint the bonnet + both front guards + extra $600 if I want the type-M bumper as well. Wait a month to get enough money for it.

- $3500 for full body respray. Wait 2 months to get enough money for it.

You guys reckon which one the best way to go ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15852-paintwork-3-choices/
Share on other sites

This quote is from a workshop I know that have high quality job. They did a panel respray on my previous car and I couldn't spot the repair, very professional. They are only 2 blocks away from where I live so that's a bonus point, I can just walk up there to pick up the car when it's finished.

If you know someone else in Melbourne who can do a top quality respray for much less than $3500, let me know. And I mean top quality, no dodgy cheap jobs.

hehehe...

who said my car is black????

my car is wine red, so even if I bought your bumper, I will need a $800 respray anyway.....

and I already have the bumper and side skirts already.

so I can't buy another one.

I will have a standard (non type M) bumper in burgundy for sale in a few weeks after I put on this type M bumper on.

well F#%k you for caring but i dont think it would cost to get a standard type m front bar sprayed and fitted for $600 if you bought my bar for $150 resprayed shouldnt cost you more than $100-$150 thats $300 but u know what you can get f%#cked cause i aint selling your poor arss nothing!

hmmmm seems that I've got three votes for $3500 full professional respray.

maybe that's the way to go to ensure that the paints are all uniform throughout the whole body... rather than a patch here and there? beside that body stripe looks a bit like the 80s anyway.

I have been around a few spray paint joints here in adelaide and asked for a cheap blow over that looks good.. Basically nothing fancy just nice and clean looking.

oh that will be $5000... WTF i asked for a cheap job....

I have had 3 quotes and all have been 5grand...

bit of tension felt in this thread

ease up guys!

i think save ur money for the full job. $3500 is a good price.

other wise you will end up paying more in the long run when you want to get other parts painted too.

Just a suggestion. If you are about to fit a m-spec front bar to your car, do what i have done to mine (attachment below), so that is you decide to get a fmic in the future you will have full air flow to it.

Take it to a plastic welder (i took mine to a bumper repair shop, in Airport West) tell him to cut the middle bar off (the one that supports the number plate) and use the off cuts to seal the remaining cut outs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The team at OBD2 Australia are pretty good, shoot them an email and ask them. I've dealt with them before for work stuff. I'd be shocked if it didn't work, so long as Consult can activate the ABS. But you might need to use KLine for it which would be the stopper, as I don't think that piece does KLine comms.
    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
×
×
  • Create New...