Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the other thing i think worth mentioning is that although the g4's are 8 pot, each piston is very small it almost seems a comparitive force could be made by a big 4 piston i.e the stock brembo gear, it would be intersting to know the total surface area difference between the two calipers...

Edited by R32 GT-R

Good point !

The big advanage is that you get to run a 356mm x 35mm disc and a whole lot bigger pad than standard which helps no end for brake fade as it contains more metal, aluminium bell and a larger surface area. Not to mention the advantage of the mechanical force the larger rotor provides.

I could still brake hard with the standard nissan calipers but heat would get to them in the end. The G4's brakes harder than the standards units i have no doubt about that but you can only brake as hard as your tyres will allow and i found after moving to slicks the standard caliper could just not get rid of the heat fast enough and ended up as brake fade.

Back to the topic of the thread, i was not lucky enough to get brembo on my R32 so for me it was to buy the brembo or G4. Brembo are 10 years old and 324 x 28mm G4 was new and 356 x 35mm with aluminium hats and new pads.

the other thing i think worth mentioning is that although the g4's are 8 pot, each piston is very small it almost seems a comparitive force could be made by a big 4 piston i.e the stock brembo gear, it would be intersting to know the total surface area difference between the two calipers...

The fact that they seem to work well with the std BMC it would suggest that the total piston area is about the same. Most the advantage comes from being able to run the larger rotor...and hopefully a more rigid caliper.

The fact that they seem to work well with the std BMC it would suggest that the total piston area is about the same. Most the advantage comes from being able to run the larger rotor...and hopefully a more rigid caliper.

could you not run a larger rotor with the 4 pot brembo's to give the same effect? or is the slightly larger physical size of the calliper and thicker rotor that help with heat dissapation that make it more worth while?

You could run a larger rotor with stock brembos, but there would be a bit of stuffing around with brackets and the like to get them to work. If someone came up with an easy(and cheap) way to fit bigger discs to stock brembos i'd defiantly consider it. I think the biggest improvement comes from the bigger disc, the bigger caliper/pad probably plays a small part in dissipating heat as well.

I agree with what Troy has said above. But i don't know shit.

Someone lend me the std Brembos with pads for two weeks and i will trial fit them against some rotors i have and see what the max size we can run is. I have some 365mm rotors i can try, also 340 and 355mm rotors we can try them with. Just need the calipers and pads to play with

Why not? mine are sitting in a box for the next 5 weeks, I guess that will be long enough. You definately don't need the discs?

Can send em down with a mate who commutes to melb if you want.

had DBA 4000's on my 32, and ive got brembo-ness on my 33 and thats now cranking near 600rwhp.......but due to running circuit pads in which i have spares of.....im looking for something more streetand softer so they break harder with less warming up time.

Trent can you perhaps helpme out with some URAS pads???

Why not? mine are sitting in a box for the next 5 weeks, I guess that will be long enough. You definately don't need the discs?

Can send em down with a mate who commutes to melb if you want.

There you go Troy, get Duncans and let me know how you go :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...