Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is my first Dyno run in my V35 Sedan with the 6 Speed Getrag fitted, only mod a full Borla Exhaust and K&N filter element from Jash at C-Red

I have been informed the dyno is off so I will have a more accurate one next week, but you can see the torque comes straight on which is mint.

mypic77.jpg

Edited by Guest
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158845-my-v35s-first-dyno-run-image-posted/
Share on other sites

Going to work on the induction system first as I had a pod filter on with no heat shield which was so loud when it came on plus the bottom end was a bit dead and more of a rush at 4,000 rpm, the pod filter only lasted a day, lots of bits in the US and Japan to tune the N/A engine up we will see what it takes to reach 240 hp at the rear wheels.

Jash has some Worx 19's for me then I am going to put some spare RE55's I have on my 17" BBS rims and see how it goes down the qtr.

The torque is so nice and with a different note to it, you could say it is a BMW V8 type sound.

Edited by Guest
Going to work on the induction system first as I had a pod filter on with no heat shield, it was so loud when it came on plus the bottom end was a bit dead, more of a rush at 4,000 rpm so the pod filter lasted a day. Lots of bits in the US and Japan to tune the N/A engine up so we will see what it takes to reach 240 hp at the rear wheels.

The torque is so nice and with a different note to it, you could say it is BMW V8 type sound. Jash has some Worx 19's for me then I am going to put some spare RE55's I have on my 17" BBS rims and see how it goes down the qtr.

Sounds good, keep us posted on it's progress! :(

No offense dude, but according to the Americans I've talked to the Borla is not very impressive at all. Nothing bad said about flow, but more about its quality.

Obviously readings differ between dynos (even in Shootout Mode), but your power figure is what I'd expect from a stock car.

What year is it? Is it running the 280hp engine or the 300hp engine?

You should be able to hit 240rwhp with just bolt-ons. Get the Z33 intake tube (which is less restrictive) or an aftermarket one, plenum spacer (assuming its a 280hp engine) and ECU and you should hit your target. With cats and headers on top of the above I'd expect at least 250rwhp in Shootout Mode.

There's practically zero gains from a pod filter, so don't expect anything but noise if you put another one on.

No offense dude, but according to the Americans I've talked to the Borla is not very impressive at all. Nothing bad said about flow, but more about its quality.

Obviously readings differ between dynos (even in Shootout Mode), but your power figure is what I'd expect from a stock car.

What year is it? Is it running the 280hp engine or the 300hp engine?

You should be able to hit 240rwhp with just bolt-ons. Get the Z33 intake tube (which is less restrictive) or an aftermarket one, plenum spacer (assuming its a 280hp engine) and ECU and you should hit your target. With cats and headers on top of the above I'd expect at least 250rwhp in Shootout Mode.

There's practically zero gains from a pod filter, so don't expect anything but noise if you put another one on.

I am going to use a different dyno and see what it comes up with as Jash did say this dyno is running 20 to 30 hp low it was a "I am bored lets do a dyno run" we wanted to see how the graph looks, the yanks have quoted 220 to 240 rwhp stock. All the other mods you spoke about were done to a CPV35 so we know what is worth while.

Z33 Intake tube works well, plenum spacer isnt worth the hassle, I think ECU is a waste of money, with Cats out and Headers in it is to loud, US headers dont fit RHD cars well and Japanese are not worth the money, a Pod filter on Jash's CPV35 did make a difference.

The quality of the Borla exhaust was faultless compared to a lot of other systems on the market and it is well priced at the same time, it bolted straight up no rubbing, quality fittings but Yanks complain about everything.

A few of us who drive V35's every day all deem it the quickest yet as driving a dozen different ones in a week is a good way to guage any difference.

For real hp I would just get my mates at DNA Motorsport to fit a PROCHARGER and be done with it not waste time and money.

image2.jpg

Damn, thts nice..makes me wanna run out and buy one now...u've got the sedan too! Any pics you can share of the car?

I have been meaning to get around to some photos but I was waiting for the 19's I have to be fitted, it is dumped on it's arse but still a bit soft looking with 17's.

They are a lot nicer car to drive then people give them credit and quicker then you think with only a little work.

Edited by Guest
Z33 Intake tube works well, plenum spacer isnt worth the hassle, I think ECU is a waste of money, with Cats out and Headers in it is to loud, US headers dont fit RHD cars well and Japanese are not worth the money, a Pod filter on Jash's CPV35 did make a difference.

The quality of the Borla exhaust was faultless compared to a lot of other systems on the market and it is well priced at the same time, it bolted straight up no rubbing, quality fittings but Yanks complain about everything.

A few of us who drive V35's every day all deem it the quickest yet as driving a dozen different ones in a week is a good way to guage any difference.

For real hp I would just get my mates at DNA Motorsport to fit a PROCHARGER and be done with it not waste time and money.

image2.jpg

The Yanks don't complain about the JDM catbacks. The Fujitsubo and HKS ones especially come highly lauded.

As for the plenum spacer, its the easiest thing to install! You just unbolt the upper plenum, put this metal spacer on with its gaskets, and then bolt the f**ker back down! And on a 280hp engine, it is worth it. While it only gives you a couple of kilowatts more in the top end, it makes the engine far more willing to breathe and so your usable rev range increases. It also stops your front 2 cylinders from getting starved of oxygen, so it doesn't coke up as badly in there. I'd say they provide a gain at least as good as a pod filter, if not more.

As for headers, you can get a cheaper set locally made. UAS sells 350Z extractors (which will fit a V35) for $600. Cats aren't cheap, though, no matter where you go :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...