Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

My car is r33 GTS4 NON-TURBO, though I have a Apexi pen style turbo timer with O2 sensor reading, which shows 2.80 and keep changing all the time. The maximum reading I have seen is 2.80.

whats the normal reading should be?

Should it be on one value without changing?

if this si problem from where can I buy a o2 sensor?

I have no Idea where to find the o2 sensor in my car, a little hel please...

Cheers

Chinthana

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159195-o2-sensor-reading-shows-280/
Share on other sites

Hi

My car is r33 GTS4 NON-TURBO, though I have a Apexi pen style turbo timer with O2 sensor reading, which shows 2.80 and keep changing all the time. The maximum reading I have seen is 2.80.

whats the normal reading should be?

Should it be on one value without changing?

if this si problem from where can I buy a o2 sensor?

I have no Idea where to find the o2 sensor in my car, a little hel please...

Cheers

Chinthana

Maybe it has something to do with the lack of a turbo..?

o2 sensor can be bought from an SAu trader (kudosmotorsports, or Michael Sullivan). NTK one for about $120ish.

an o2 sensor basically measures the air/fuel mixtures from exhaust gases.

the sensor is located on the exhaust manifold/headers/extractors... (see attached pic for a rough idea on where to look in your engine bay). takes about 5 minutes to change, and is a piece of cake.post-9983-1173089657.jpg

not sure on how apexi get their readings, but if you're running rich or lean then it should be quite obvious. nothing a retune/dyno time can't fix.

o2 sensor can be bought from an SAu trader (kudosmotorsports, or Michael Sullivan). NTK one for about $120ish.

an o2 sensor basically measures the air/fuel mixtures from exhaust gases.

the sensor is located on the exhaust manifold/headers/extractors... (see attached pic for a rough idea on where to look in your engine bay). takes about 5 minutes to change, and is a piece of cake.post-9983-1173089657.jpg

not sure on how apexi get their readings, but if you're running rich or lean then it should be quite obvious. nothing a retune/dyno time can't fix.

Thanks for that, Ill have alook in my car tomorrow. maybe clean it up a bit and see. So in my understanding, O2 sensor doesnt effect the performance of the car? I will be doing a tuneup maybe a dyno soon. but that not going to change anything . as long as this is not something i should consider, im happy.

Cheers

no.. the o2 sensor does affect performance!!

it tells the ecu how much fuel and air to put in when you put your foot down.

How do I know my o2 sensor is stuffed or not. at the moment my car doesnt have much power at all, last week did a servise with oil change and spak plugs to NGK irridium. cant feel any difference though. I have a Apexi SAFC as well, dont know how to tune it. my be chnaging the o2 sensor and tuning the safs might help?

Cheers

let your car run and take a quick smell of the exhaust gases, and if it smells really fuel'y (basically like when you're at the petrol station) it's probably running rich. hard to describe...

if you have an SAFC in with the standard maps, then you aren't running at ideal mixtures.

Changing the O2 sensor and SAFC tune is a must.

o2 sensors would generally need to be changed considering most skylines are most probably nearing 80,000-100,000km.

let your car run and take a quick smell of the exhaust gases, and if it smells really fuel'y (basically like when you're at the petrol station) it's probably running rich. hard to describe...

if you have an SAFC in with the standard maps, then you aren't running at ideal mixtures.

Changing the O2 sensor and SAFC tune is a must.

o2 sensors would generally need to be changed considering most skylines are most probably nearing 80,000-100,000km.

Smell is not really fuel's, probably car is not tuned properly, when you say tuning the safs actually what they do? is it hard to do? i went to a place and they said it will cost $500 just to tune it....

any help? (Imnot sure about when you say "Standerd maps" i can write down the values wich I can see in the safs if it helps)

Cheers

Chinthana

having it tuned will fine tune the air and fuel mixtures for optimal settings.

$500 including dyno time is about right.

writing down the values won't mean anything... each car is different

no one can really help you... it sounds like you lack alot of the basic fundamentals in how an ecu/piggyback management works.

just get it tuned... it's not doing anything just sitting there. simple as that.

having it tuned will fine tune the air and fuel mixtures for optimal settings.

$500 including dyno time is about right.

writing down the values won't mean anything... each car is different

no one can really help you... it sounds like you lack alot of the basic fundamentals in how an ecu/piggyback management works.

just get it tuned... it's not doing anything just sitting there. simple as that.

Yeah I get it, thanks for the advise , will let you know how it goes after tuneup...

Cheers

Chinthana

Checked with NGK for an o2 sensor, they have o2 sensor for 33 RB25DET engine, not for RB25DE which is my one:(,,,,,so there much difference when it comes to oxy sensor between trubo and non turbo? if not then I can buy the one for RB25DET and fit it in to my RB25DE car (r33 GTS4) please advise.

Cheers

When are you looking at it? When the motor is cold?

I bought a genuine nissan o2 sensor. When cold it reads 3.98v then within a km or 2 it slowly drops down to the 0.20-0.9v and begins cycling back and forth as it should. It begins cycling once the engine temp reaches over 40degree's.

When are you looking at it? When the motor is cold?

I bought a genuine nissan o2 sensor. When cold it reads 3.98v then within a km or 2 it slowly drops down to the 0.20-0.9v and begins cycling back and forth as it should. It begins cycling once the engine temp reaches over 40degree's.

When the motor is in operating temp...........

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
    • Oof. One of my mates has an R34 GT-R that he initially was a "I want to go twins for response and convenience" on his stock 2.6 with Kelford 272 cams, but his friends are pests and were always in his ear about their place being in the bin.   Eventually one of the 2860-5s decided to add it's own input and force his hand, so he conceded and went for a Pulsar 6262G ("G35 900") with T4 0.85 hotside.    Here's an overlay of the results, same cams, same stock bottom end, same boost, same fuel, just from a pretty tidy 2860-5 install to a Pulsar turbo on a 6boost maniifold on BP98.   Worth mentioning here, it may seem like a dead horse thing but the dyno plot doesn't tell the story of how much better it is to drive - transient response has completely changed the car, he used to have flat foot shifting to stop it having to wind up again on gear changes even at >7000rpm... now it builds boost faster than that even short shifting.   It's 100% transformed the car before you even consider how much better it holds on: Pulsar and Garrett aren't the same, but from our experience if you're just looking for a better drive and the ability to make the same or more power I think the divided G30 770 would probably be the smallest I'd go to.
    • Great work Duncan, any events local you will give it a test once all done? 
×
×
  • Create New...