Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've owned a 33 gts-t and now a 32gtr, i've also driven the 32gts-t, GTR32 for the win if you can find a good one and within yer budget. Yes it has aged, but it's the legend. A GTR will always be a GTR. This is just my personal opinion, i liked my 33gts-t very much, but it was love at first sight with my gtr32.

Edited by J-Boy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159371-32-or-33/page/2/#findComment-2958717
Share on other sites

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hmm mate. I guess its a matter of taste as everyone says.

After having owned a R32 and driving plenty of R33s I would suggest going for an R33 as they are newer and as such are a nicer car to drive on a day to day basis.

Still 32's are dirt cheap and so are parts.

This ended up owing me $10k and I painted it put a cooler on it coilovers wheels and a whole heap of other stuff.

Either way whatever you end up buying e-bay is your friend :)

post-35562-1173202767.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159371-32-or-33/page/2/#findComment-2958740
Share on other sites

Hey ghost

i have a 33.. however.. if your under 5'8 get a 32...

Get a clean one and dont mod the piss out of it..

Get decent tyres//suspension//struts & better brakes first.

This is no offence here.. but your better off with a car thats lighter, not as powerful with great aftermarket suspension and brakes so you can get use to it and dont write yourself off by doing stupid mods first.

However r32 parts are a little harder to get now.. so be aware of that.

this is only if

a) you dont have a license yet

b) this is your first turbo

if you dont have a license yet you aint going to be able to get a turbo anyhoo.. If so i suggest you get a rb25de

if not.. the r33's reaalllly have an appeal to me... and the extra .5 displacement helped me a little... yes it looks like a family car stock.. but meh.. im after a sleeper of a car anyway

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159371-32-or-33/page/2/#findComment-2958861
Share on other sites

Go the GTR if your in a 32, I think the 32 GTST's just look weird being so thin...

if your going GTST id say go 33, they go harder and are probobly more comfortable, but in stock form they look more of a family car and less of a preformance car, at least front on.

couldent put it beta... !!.. watch out buying a older car as parts will be very old, and most times you loose alot of kw from the fly to the wheels due to this.. eg: my r33 gtst, vs a done up 32gtr, looked perfect, but when it came down to it, he was loosing power due to being so old.. if you going for a older car, get it all checked... gtr, get a 32!!!, or get a r33gtst, not much point of having a 4wd on a daily driving car!.. my r33gtst is daily driver and a modded car, you will get alot beta kms per tank with a r33gtst, and they go very hard if you are willing to spend some cash on it... but, it really depends, some cars look good, some dont, you really need to put your flavor on the car if you get a stock... 32 are a bit harder to fit into and more of a race car, and 33 is more of a race/lesuire car :)

but,

people are going to defend what they have is the best, and probebly is due to them modding the car to the way that they want it, look around and when the car catches your eyes, get it!!.. and make sure that everything works, and hasent been to trashed with no service/or maintance.....

not to sure why people think r33 loox like a family car, well the 2 door does not look like that at all the 4 door, yeah.... not sure what people have been doing/leaving on there 2 door r33 to make it look like a family car ?..

Edited by seriesII
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159371-32-or-33/page/2/#findComment-2959568
Share on other sites

hey guys thanks alot for all of this feedback , i think i may stick with my first decision and get a 33 for the newerness reason and also the sleep look due to me wanting a sleeper with some nice power eventually , but thanks once again to all of u for ur thoughts if anyone else has thoughts please keep posting as im after every bit of information i can get my hands on

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159371-32-or-33/page/2/#findComment-2959995
Share on other sites

It's your call, it's your money!

R32's are cheaper if your willing to work on it and learn from it.

R33's cost more and will still need to be worked on but maybe not as much.

How common is a R33 compared to a R32??

Do you want to be the same or a little different.?

They both go like the clappers and both love upgrades.

R33 has a better manual gearbox, (stronger)..

R32 rev's harder for longer...

My advise would be to look at every car you can and crawl under each one to see how many km's they have actually done. You will be able to tell a high km's car from low if you look long and hard enough.

Never beleive the what's on the clock.!!!! Some are genuine some are not....

Personally I love the R32...But that don't matter a pinch of sh_t.

My R32 sleeps very well, believe me..

Happy searching..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159371-32-or-33/page/2/#findComment-2961127
Share on other sites

r32 seem to be stolen more in queesnland tho :)..

i dont think its the fact of: do you want to be differnt, because you can do what ever you want to a skyline, everything pritty much clips or pulls of to customize... and i think there are more r33 because they are newer, im sure back in the day there was more 32 then 33's.. and im sure in the future there will be more r34s and people will say, oh, a r34 is so common.. hehhehe.. times change, get what you think loox good in your eyes.. ps: 33 has more torque, and so on and so on :)

32 will use less fuel :mad:, but i like paying the extra money for the rb25det :yes:

Edited by seriesII
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159371-32-or-33/page/2/#findComment-2961697
Share on other sites

obviously when you compare a r32 and r33 together, no doubt the r33 will be better. Although a car choice goes beyond what is stated on the spec sheet. It comes down to your preference of what you imagine your self driving.

Compare an old skyline to a brand new car for same cost. The specs may be in favour of the new car (depending on which specs you focus on age, petrol etc) Although you will still go for the skyline based on personal preference.

Same can be said for the r32/r33 decision. You dont buy a r32 thinking "what if i chose a r33" as it comes down to what you are most happy with. if you have a passion for the particular car, being an old classic car or r32 in this case, then the price of repairs+parts and the numbers on a piece of paper will not matter :P

I hope you make the right choice as they are both excellent cars each with their pro's and con's

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159371-32-or-33/page/2/#findComment-2962107
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I will rebutt this and the preceding point from Dose....but without doing any calcs to demonstrate anything and without knowing that I am right or wrong. But... The flow capacity of a fluid transfer system is not limited by the smallest orifice or section of conduit in that system, unless it is drastically smaller than the rest of the system. OK, I use the word drastically perhaps with too much emphasis, but let's drill down on what I really mean. The flow capacity of the system is the result of the sum of the restrictions of the entire system. So, to make an extreme example, if you have a network with 3" pipe everywhere (and let's say a total length of only a few metres) and that 12mm ID restriction of the oil filter connection being the obvious restriction, then for any given amount of pressure available, the vast majority of all the pressure drop in the system is going to occur in the 12mm restriction. But.... increase the length of the 3" pipeline to, say 1000m, and suddenly the pipe pressure loss will likely add up to either be in the same order of magnitude, possibly even exceeding that of the 12mm restriction. Now the 12mm restriction starts to matter less. Translate this to the actual engine, actual oil cooler hose sizing, etc etc, and perhaps: The pressure loss caused by flowing through the narrow section (being the 12mm oil filter port, and perhaps any internal engine oil flow pathways associated with it) is a certain number. The pressure loss through, say, -12 hoses out to the cooler and back is negligible, but The pressure loss through -10 hoses out to the cooler, at the exact same length as the above, starts to become a decent fraction of the loss through the 12mm stuff at the filter port. Maybe even it starts to exceed it. I could actually do these calcs if I knew 1) how much oil was actually flowing in the line, 2) gave enough of a f**k to do things that I hate doing for work, voluntarily for a hypothetical discussion. Anyway - I reiterate. It's not the narrowest port that necessarily determines how much it can all flow. It is the sum. A long enough length of seemingly fat enough pipe can still cause more loss than a semmingly dominant small bore restriction.
    • To pick up what Dose is putting down. Not a lot of point running a huge hose if the motor is still restricted to the smaller size... It's only capable of flowing so much at that point...   *Waits for GTSBoy to come in and bring in the technicalities of length of pipe, and additional restriction from wall friction etc etc*
    • Hooley Dooley these things have some history! If i sell them they will need a certificate of providence to prove they have been in the hands of verified RB20 royalty! They have been stored in a plastic tub, away from sunlight and moisture. They are in mint condition. And they will stay that way, as i have sprung the money for a set of shockworks coilovers. I'm just working on getting them in at the moment, after rebushing the rear of the car, and while the subframe was out i welded in the GKtech reinforcement bracing as well.  They will get a workout at Ararat King of The Hill in November. I ran 48s on the short course there a few months ago, and i am hoping with new bushes and shocks in the rear i can launch a bit harder. There was a fair bit of axle tramp when i tried too hard off the line. a few of the corners had dips mid way which also made the car feel a bit unsettled, hopefully this will help there too.   
    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
×
×
  • Create New...