I Lost A Cylinder

[Ska]

might of been a dirty injector holding it open or restricting it's flow? Meh lets hope it does not come back

[yokotas13]

it shoudlnt with new injectors lol

[Tangles]

bad luck mate

prior to fitting the new injectors;

* try throwing in some top shelf injector cleaner in a tank of fuel

* replace all 6 spark plugs, pregapped to .8mm, copper

* while there, surround the coil packs with very high tempurature silicone sealant (industrial strength, stops wasted spark)

* while there, compression test each cylinder (why not, lol)

* take off AFM and clean religiously with brake cleaner, and make sure the plug is snapped back on tight, big bumps can knock these afms up a bit

* while afm is off, take off pipe to turbo compressor and check shaft play (wont help, but why not, lol)

with big injectors, Im not sure the safc will help it entirely. perhaps 480cc S15 redtop injectors are the go, 550 with a safc might be too big.

as far as suspn goes, Im just worried if you are using it as a daily driver with it real low, you wont be able to stop in time once hitting a big bump if a kiddie then runs out in front of the stagea.... due to suspn travel you wont be able to steer/stop correctly in an emergency situation and it could infact cost some one their life or limb. you just never know. thats all, thats my knid of thinking.

best of luck with sorting it out

[yokotas13]

bad luck mate

prior to fitting the new injectors;

* try throwing in some top shelf injector cleaner in a tank of fuel

* replace all 6 spark plugs, pregapped to .8mm, copper

* while there, surround the coil packs with very high tempurature silicone sealant (industrial strength, stops wasted spark)

* while there, compression test each cylinder (why not, lol)

* take off AFM and clean religiously with brake cleaner, and make sure the plug is snapped back on tight, big bumps can knock these afms up a bit

* while afm is off, take off pipe to turbo compressor and check shaft play (wont help, but why not, lol)

with big injectors, Im not sure the safc will help it entirely. perhaps 480cc S15 redtop injectors are the go, 550 with a safc might be too big.

as far as suspn goes, Im just worried if you are using it as a daily driver with it real low, you wont be able to stop in time once hitting a big bump if a kiddie then runs out in front of the stagea.... due to suspn travel you wont be able to steer/stop correctly in an emergency situation and it could infact cost some one their life or limb. you just never know. thats all, thats my knid of thinking.

best of luck with sorting it out

Ill do the cleaner for sure

I have some greddy spark plugs that the local shop i go to suggested

didnt think about the silicon, ill haev to do that

Compression test is bueno!!! all equal accross the board

I have a Z32 MAFS ive been waiting to put in

Hopefully if i can find it, the stock turbo isnt staying on, GT2540 ....but i checked the turbo already as part of diagnostics, it was good

I had 650s on a DSM with an safc, it worked out fine, but we shall see. If they are too big, ill just downgrade as long as i can (as long as im not maxing out my 550s with flow), otherwise i think i will look into another type of fuel management.

As far as beign too low without the suspension travel

I honestly believe that i still have enough suspension travel to handle any weght transfers derrived from ahrd braking and such. The GTR brakes do an extremely good job on stopping this thing on a dime, which ive had to do before.

but i apprecaite your concern, but with the travel i have (at least 3 inches, where as what ive been tought 2 is minimum) and when i get my new coilovers, iw ill have more, its just a matter of sourcing them.

these Silkroads arent really designed to go as low as id like, which is why they dont really do the job correctly dampning large bumps and dips....but at a good height, they are great!

[FLYSLY]

Actually after hearing you say it has fixed itself,

It sounds exactly like what happened to my old silvia which had an rb20det in it, it used to run exactly how you described every now and again and then it would fix itself, but it did this on and off until it just constantly was buggered and the problem was a buggered AFM what had actually happened was the mother board or whatever it is inside the square bit of the AFM actaully cracked, and believe it or not it was actually caused from constant bumps because i had such harsh suspension in it.

Now dont take this the wrong way i am definately not having a go at you about the way you have your suspension as i really like the way your car looks.... But i am telling you the truth when i say that my AFM did stuff up because of how harsh and bumpy it was in the car.

So i would say get your AFM checked out, although i know you are putting in a Z32 AFM so then again you may not need to.

[yokotas13]

i believe it

THe way my car is now very well could have contributed to the weirdness. BUt id rather fix it and leave the height as is....just how i am. I hate my cars being high

[FLYSLY]

I never told you to change it i am just simply trying to help you diagnose the problem

[yokotas13]

my bad

i didnt mean it like that to be mean or anything.

It still hasnt come back yet, im still waiting for it to occur again....sucks

but thanks for the help guys, ill use it if and when it starts again

[GoldZilla]

Tangles is right about the plugs - I took my Iridiums out and put coppers in, gapped to 0.8mm, and it got rid of the cold-start stutteriness in my car... The debate is still out as to whether Iridiums/Platinums are better than coppers, but I've changed over and my car runs better as a result. I'd already gapped the Iridiums down to 0.8mm as well, but the coppers are what made the difference.

Oh, and when he says "industrial strength" silicon for sealing up your coil packs, he means make sure you get the stuff tradies use that is more resistant to the high temperatures that they'll be subjected to...

[yokotas13]

ill use stuff we use on jet engines...i thinkt hat would do it

[Stinky Rooster]

Just out of curiosity, what do you use on a jet engine? A brand and description would be great if you have it.

[yokotas13]

we use some black silicon. i dont have a part number or anything, its in a generic white tube. But we use it for sealing surfaces with high heat (think 1010* C)

edit: If i recal permatex makes it.

[warps]

problem is, if that was the case it would be black smoke, not white....

Well, if you'd bothered to mention it was white smoke in the first place..........

Also, confucious say, "problem that go away by self, also come back by self"

I've spent the last 20 years in maintenance, and never a truer word said.

[yokotas13]

yeah, thats the truth isnt it

But i cant continue to diagnose it until it comes back.

THe only other thing i can do at this point is replace suspect parts, which im going to do, and check wiring

[Mr_RS4]

This is a little off topic but still in the same ball park so I'll save starting another thread...

Now I don't know if this is a missfire or just the ecu cutting power just before a shift (I know some auto toyotas do this to save the auto on wot gear changes). But basically I put my foot right down and at pretty much 6000rpm it sounds like a rev limiter but faster and smoother (if that makes sense at all) and then shifts and the process starts again. There is no missfire from idle to anywhere else in the rev range at all and runs perfectly even under boost, just at this point. But if I put the car in netural and rev it to this point it will do the same thing. Its really hard to describe but missfires are usually harsh (depending on how servere they are). It really feels and sound like a cut out from the ecu. But I wouldn't think it would do this with me just free reving it. And usually with a missfire if your just revving the car it may not miss until you put some load on the motor.

Any ideads....

I've got a set of iridium's which look perfect and gapped to .8 (auctuall I've gapped them down further atm to see if there was any difference) and checked the coil packs over but I have another set I can try if need be. But it doesn't seem like a usual missfire.

[yokotas13]

it sounds like my problem

have your coilpacks checked

one or two might be weak...that was my problem

it like hiccups for a few seconds at the top of the RPM range, then lets a small backfire out as it shifts to the next gear.

i got some NGK plugs that i have to put in and my coilpack, hopefully it will go away

[Mr_RS4]

Yeah it doesn't backfire, like I said it really sounds and feels just like hitting the rev limiter but a lot faster pulses. I've had miss fires before in other cars I've had and this is very different. Unless its not a complete miss but just the coil packs getting weak in the upper rev range, I've got another set I can try (mind you they're not new either) and I was thinking of switching to Splitfires anyway. Also I might just try some good old coppers instead on the iridiums (has worked for me before) and see how I go. I just thought it might have been an ecu cut just before a shit on wot to stop stress on the auto. I can't even remember if its always been like this or not I'm sure soarers do the same thing or one of the import toyota auto's.

[yokotas13]

i reccomend the Delphis

ok well they were reccomended to me by a few places

apparently the splitfires are shunned in japan becuase of their difficulty in reliability or something?

I talked to a local shop about an upgrade, and they rececomended delphi which are cheaper than splitfire as well.

[yokotas13]

and ya know, i think i described it a little wrong

its like a gurgley stutter at high RPMs....

I replaced the pugs with some new NGKs i had sent from teh states, it made an improvment but the coilpack shoudl eliminate everything

[stasis]

tell ypu guys wat. As you guys know about 2 ,omths agp i wemt amd got ,y car tumed with power Fc . Got the car back and it ran perfect. But from time to time the car will feel like it lost power for a millisecond amd i called racpace which is my tuner. And they said that its the power Fc cos its too sensitive. Its getting reading from the sensors all the time and sometimes the sensors send a blank info to the ECU therefore the "loss of power for a split millesecond. I dont know how true is it though. It doesnt do it all the time though. So...