Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake Fluid

400HP

By 400HP,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest SadisticRage

Guest SadisticRage

Posted
Posted

Unfortunately quality and cheap dont fit well together when it comes to fluid.

Speaking from experience, the Motul DOT 5.1 wont be good enough for much more than a few laps (2-4) on a circuit and even that is relevant to the quality of other components such as ducts, pads, rotors etc.

Go for a fluid with a very high dry boiling point such as Brembo or ELF....neither are cheap but it beats having the pedal go to the floor at the end of the straight.

I dont know what model GTR you have but if by chance it is a 32 and still has the factory cross drilled discs, GET RID OF THEM.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1598-brake-fluid/#findComment-30936
Share on other sites
whatsisname Grand Master

whatsisname

Posted
Posted

Motul DOT 5.1 isn't the top spec brake fluid in the Motul range. "RBF 600 Racing Line" with a dry boiling point of 312'c is the highest spec Motul brake fluid.

I tried to find the boiling point rating on both the ELF & Brembo fluids but it doesn't list the info on their respective web sites?

Edit: Motul DOT 5.1 has a dry boiling point of 272'c

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1598-brake-fluid/#findComment-31534
Share on other sites
NRB Rising Star

NRB

Posted
Posted

Brake fluid should be replaced after every race meeting really! It all depends on how many laps you do and how much heat you put into it.

In the Mini, I run Motul DOT5.1 and RB14 pads (Formula Ford Spec) - with the cars low mass, I don't have a problem with pad fade or fluid boiling etc...

In the WRX I used to run standard fluid and RB74 pads - never had fade with them either, but I never strung more than 4 laps of Sandown or Calder together.

Some people seem to be much harder on brakes and tyres than others, and often it doesn't mean better laptimes. There's more time to be gained from taking correct lines maximising corner speed than braking later and getting a poorer line.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1598-brake-fluid/#findComment-31829
Share on other sites
Guest SadisticRage

Guest SadisticRage

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by ONARUN

so how many track days can your current fluid see you through, using castrol srf as posted above

A grand total of one.

At the end of a track day the fluid is almost black and if used again the following weekend would see the pedal drop to the floor within 2 laps.

Admittedly this is due to the GTRs being a little overweight

:lol:. Reality: Skylines are a heavy car!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1598-brake-fluid/#findComment-31964
Share on other sites
red900ss Grand Master

red900ss

Posted
Posted

I use an ATE product. It's blue and boils slightly below the temp SRF does, but cost about half the price.

Bleed them before each track day. Some people say right after as well. I have never had a problem with brake fade but I try not to punish them too much either.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1598-brake-fluid/#findComment-32041
Share on other sites
  • 8 months later...
Targa Tom Proficient

Targa Tom

Posted
Posted

Personally I use RBF600 and a Symmons plains the nations best brake test track it helps sqeeze the ebc reds just fine. As i understand the dry boiling point is good, but the wet one is the kicker... it gives an insight into how well the fluid works when dirty.

the DOT number is relative to the base chemical... and its ability to retain moisture. Motul, every bit as good as Castrol SRF... and elf and brembo (rebadged motul)...

Keep on stoppin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1598-brake-fluid/#findComment-277405
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...