Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI guys the names Andrew I've been round this site for a while now but on the weekend I finally go my first Skyline. I flew up from Melbourne to Sydney to view it. It's a 94-95 M-Spec with approx 108,XXXkm on it. IT does have a few cosmetic issues but my uncle is a panel beater so hopefully it will get fixed up for cheap. The car also has the books from Japan so I was happy with that. PIcked it up for 10.5k

Here it is:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=156036

It has a lil bit of work done, with a boost controller, short shifter, cannon (I need a full exhaust), and some lil stuff like alarm, boost gauge turbo timer etc...

I have a few questions in regards to it im sure these are common problems and Ill get some answer right away.

1. I have a leak in the boot on the passanger side and there is a lil bit of water coming in (no rust though). Is this a common problem? And what could be the culprate?

2. The head lights have like a faded brown look to them can this be fixed or do I need to buy new headlights?

3. The drivers side power window switch works when it feels like I presume its just the solonoid???

4. What is safe boost to run on what is essential a standard car? It seems to be runnin around 10psi at the moment.

5. Passanger Side Seatbelt doesn't retract when u get out can this be fixed or will I need a new one?

6. Based on what it has done what would be some basic mods that are worthwhile doing? Mainly performance wise.

7. Hey I was reading that these come with 4-Wheels steer I didnt notice mine workign How can I tell??

THnaks everyone and I hope I dont annoy you too much with what I presume are pretty standard questions.

Edited by zorb_rules
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160048-just-got-my-first-skyline-an-r33/
Share on other sites

The headlights you can clean by just doing a cut and polish job on them, quite a few older skylines have this issue and they polish up real nice

10psi is perfectly safe to run on, I wouldn't go past that for daily driving really because you won't feel any real difference. If you must up the boost, just don't go past about 13-14, like I said tho, I wouldn't bother.

As for mods, upgrade fuel pump, injectors, buy a Z32 AFM and an aftermarket ECU and get it tuned :P

HI guys the names Andrew I've been round this site for a while now but on the weekend I finally go my first Skyline. I flew up from Melbourne to Sydney to view it. It's a 94-95 M-Spec with approx 108,XXXkm on it. IT does have a few cosmetic issues but my uncle is a panel beater so hopefully it will get fixed up for cheap. The car also has the books from Japan so I was happy with that. PIcked it up for 10.5k

Here it is:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=156036

It has a lil bit of work done, with a boost controller, short shifter, cannon (I need a full exhaust), and some lil stuff like alarm, boost gauge turbo timer etc...

I have a few questions in regards to it im sure these are common problems and Ill get some answer right away.

1. I have a leak in the boot on the passanger side and there is a lil bit of water coming in (no rust though). Is this a common problem? And what could be the culprate?

2. The head lights have like a faded brown look to them can this be fixed or do I need to buy new headlights?

3. The drivers side power window switch works when it feels like I presume its just the solonoid???

4. What is safe boost to run on what is essential a standard car? It seems to be runnin around 10psi at the moment.

5. Passanger Side Seatbelt doesn't retract when u get out can this be fixed or will I need a new one?

6. Based on what it has done what would be some basic mods that are worthwhile doing? Mainly performance wise.

7. Hey I was reading that these come with 4-Wheels steer I didnt notice mine workign How can I tell??

THnaks everyone and I hope I dont annoy you too much with what I presume are pretty standard questions.

1. Probably leaking in through one of the taillights. Might need to be removed and resealed.

2. Fading happens all the time on r33's and r34's. Use some brasso to polish them clear again, then finish with meguires plastic X polish.

Doesn't fully get rid of the yellow colour but is a huge improvement.

3. Could be the solenoid. I'm pretty sure the motors are common to fail, but don't quote me on that.

4. 10psi every day, only after you've got yourself a turbo back exhaust though. If you don't have one, then leave it at 7psi.

5. Beats me. Probably just get one from the wreckers.

6. In general the basic mods to do are: Turboback exhaust, bigger intercooler, boost controller, ecu or piggyback computer, pod filter (if its what you like), Possibly the fuel pump because they're getting old and can't keep up sometimes.

7. It's called HICAS. It only starts to operate at about 80kmh+. It is different to the 4 wheel steer on hondas and other cars. The rear wheels turn in the same direction(not opposite) as the front wheels. They only turn about 1 degree. It is fitted to improve handling rather than as a parking aid.

Thanks guys one more quick question....I get this clicking from udner the dash when I turn the car on..or when I use the demist option on the climate control...the guy I brought it off mentioned somethin about the cogs that moves the vents or something...i dont really understand maybe you do??

Thanks guys one more quick question....I get this clicking from udner the dash when I turn the car on..or when I use the demist option on the climate control...the guy I brought it off mentioned somethin about the cogs that moves the vents or something...i dont really understand maybe you do??

This is common in skylines, I think it is normal and not a problem....

Also, your car is not an M-Spec.... Its a Type M.... pet peeve sorry.

As far as the faded headlights go, you could scrub till the sun goes down and they will never look clear like the lights on a SII r33, maybe some aftermarket headlights or r33 GTR lights will look a lot better...

http://www.fizzautosports.com/lighting/lig..._headlamps.html

The ones on that site (towards bottom of the page) look better but the price is crazy... im sure there are better options that are similar.

For the headlights.... start with a 300-400 wet and dry and work your way up to 2000 (using all grades wet).... then cutting compound, then silicon free polish. I do it all the time for work...

Thanks guys one more quick question....I get this clicking from udner the dash when I turn the car on..or when I use the demist option on the climate control...the guy I brought it off mentioned somethin about the cogs that moves the vents or something...i dont really understand maybe you do??

Yea dont worry about the noise that you hear from your dash when your abou to start it, tahts got to do with the air con.

  • 3 weeks later...
Thanks guys one more quick question....I get this clicking from udner the dash when I turn the car on..or when I use the demist option on the climate control...the guy I brought it off mentioned somethin about the cogs that moves the vents or something...i dont really understand maybe you do??

Mine is doing this as well now... exactly the same... rather irritating... have to pull it all apart one say and see if i can fix the problem. It's as the seller mentioned, the motor that moves one of the vents is stuck or something... when I get around to fixing it i'll let you know!

do i do the inside or outside of the lights?

Outside...

inside would involve taking off the front bar, opening them up, then re-sealing them... not an easy job to do and can take a whole day...

dirty headlights are something i wont tollerate, so go and clean them!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...