Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

basically i've just finished installing my hicas lock bar and i need to get a four wheel alignment this week! So i'm basically just after some settings that you guys think will best suit my application!

The car is only ever driven on some weekends and 95% of that driving is in the hills, tyre wear isn't my biggest concern but probably will be a little more when i get some new tires.

any input is really appreciated!

what suspension parts do you have? ie what can be adjusted with the set-up you have?

ah, forgot about that stuff.

I have adjustable bush's in my front upper control arms and in my radius rods

Also have adjustable dampener suspension all round, hicas lock, rear sway bar and pineapples if that means anything!

yeah it's about right. i'd go for:

max front castor

2.5 neg (if you can get that much)

front toe out of 1.5mm (very important to get toe you are happy with)

rear toe at 0.00

rear camber around 1 degree

rear sway bar on medium or hard (if adjustable). pinaples set to neutral to start with.

yeah it's about right. i'd go for:

max front castor

2.5 neg (if you can get that much)

front toe out of 1.5mm (very important to get toe you are happy with)

rear toe at 0.00

rear camber around 1 degree

rear sway bar on medium or hard (if adjustable). pinaples set to neutral to start with.

I was looking at a few GTR's TAMADA (Tarzan JGTC) had setup for circuit attack and noticed they all ran a couple of mm toe out (rear), i have not tried this on GTR's has anyone here?

He also insisted r32 GTR's run the largest canards to aid in turn-in. Very good read he ended up shaving like 2-3 secs off the best lap time by the end of testing.

I have never run anything on the rear except 0 toe and a tiny bit of toe out (like .5mm). I'm game to try a mill or two.

this guy about has a GTST, so I wouldn't recomend it on that!

as for the canards, I have some for the GTR but have removed them as they were a massive ankle hazard! especially beeing black. but I have some ARC winglets on the way, and they may work best with the carnards back on.

currently the GTR is alligned with:

3 degrees neg

1.8mm toe out (each side)

max castor (cusco rods, at their shortest)

front sway bar on soft

rear 0 toe

1.2 degree neg

rear bar on full hard

and of course no hicas

currently I'm playing with the bump settings on the shocks, then move on to the rebound. THEN i'll do more alignment work. still lots of time to be had I think.

I was looking at a few GTR's TAMADA (Tarzan JGTC) had setup for circuit attack and noticed they all ran a couple of mm toe out (rear), i have not tried this on GTR's has anyone here?

He also insisted r32 GTR's run the largest canards to aid in turn-in. Very good read he ended up shaving like 2-3 secs off the best lap time by the end of testing.

We run toe out on the rear of GTR's only when all other avenues have been tried and it still wants to understeer. That happens occasionally with the Production car, but the Improved Production one has plenty of additional adjustments that the Production Car regs don’t allow. Meaning that I can usually dial out the understeer with the adjustable stabiliser bars.

:D cheers :)

We run toe out on the rear of GTR's only when all other avenues have been tried and it still wants to understeer. That happens occasionally with the Production car, but the Improved Production one has plenty of additional adjustments that the Production Car regs don’t allow. Meaning that I can usually dial out the understeer with the adjustable stabiliser bars.

:laugh: cheers :ermm:

yeah same situation faced them on most of the cars he drove.... under under under :D

i could not believe the drop in lap times just from fitting canards...... crazy very good bang for buck.

yeah same situation faced them on most of the cars he drove.... under under under :ermm:

i could not believe the drop in lap times just from fitting canards...... crazy very good bang for buck.

Being a typical aerodynamic device, front canards can help with the high speed understeer, but they do almost nothing for the low speed understeer.

:w00t: cheers :O

Being a typical aerodynamic device, front canards can help with the high speed understeer, but they do almost nothing for the low speed understeer.

:D cheers :glare:

yeah for sure, not your best shopping trolley upgrade :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...