Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i tried searching but it only talks of installing etc...

Why would you buy a catch can? what do they do? what benifets do they hace etc etc.

Do you reali NEED one etc

Also jus so i dont post 2 stupid questions, does a bov sound the same if the engines are the same etc or do they sound different from car to car. my mate has a great sounding bov on his 33 so if i buy the same one am i garenteed the same sound as his?

Cheers

Edited by Adz2332

With the BOV yes wuill soudn the same, peoples driving styles,boost,FMIC, and spring tension on bov can effect the soudn the car makes however.

Catch can helps eliminate blow by oil being fed back into ur intake alowing a cleaner combustion. Also alows you to monitor if u have excessive blow by issues which is a good indicator of engine health. I think a catch can is a usefull thing IMO.

GEt one just make sur eits hooked up right or u will seal all the crankcase presuure in which is very bad.

if you do any sort of track work you generally need to run a catch can. I believe anything over 2litre capacity is 3litre catch can.

But for someone lik me who only drives it on the road and only has 200kws at the wheels, should i get one? to be honest i was only looking at one cos of how it looks in the engine bay!!! plz dont hate me!!!; lol

you don't NEED a catch can. assuming your engine is healthy, with or without one you car will run 100% fine.

i have one. i got it for a few reasons:

- IF for some reason you engine develops blow-by, the catch can is there to catch all that oil before it goes into the intake

- having it there doesn't harm the engine in any way in the event of no blow-by (most engines)

- looks good in engine bay

i mean, its not going to stop blow-by from occuring, but it is going to be able to prevent it from making your compressor and intake oil-soaked.

for a boosted engine at higher risk of causing damage... i say why not?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...