Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i been reading a lot of the topics lately and so far 2 of my 3 questions have been answered. My last question is I'm looking to buy a GT-T34 a manual or i get a auto and convert to manual later on. Does anyone have any idea how much it cost for a conversion or am i better off buying a manual straight off.

It's the two 34's for sale on excite autos that i'm debating with.

Automatic GT-T34 - $22,900

Manual GT-T34 - $25,900

Can anyone also tell me is it a good deal to buy either of the two 34's.

Thank you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160362-manual-conversion/
Share on other sites

hey mate go get the manual it will save you money.

i have a 31 which is diffrent to the 34 but the same pricerple apply.

first you will have to find a manual kit. i.e box fly wheel alternator clutch peddle brake peddle all that stuff. except to pay $800 for a r31 kit. then you may have to get a new clutch or the box rebuild then hence will cost more (box apx $1000) clutch depends on which one u get.

u will then have to find out what has to be done and what has to be bloked of (i.e r31 have to loop the nutral switch).

and lasterly ARE u going to do the convertion or is a merchanic as this is a very labor intensive job. exspect 2-3 day if u know what your doing.

hope this helps.

brentt

thanks for that, help appreciated. has anyone seen the manual gt-t34 on excite autos site? if you have you reckon its worth buying? or anywhere where i can pick up a manual gt-t34 that is in good running condition?

Edited by skyline[32]
thanks for that, help appreciated. has anyone seen the manual gt-t34 on excite autos site? if you have you reckon its worth buying? or anywhere where i can pick up a manual gt-t34 that is in good running condition?

Can you post a link to it?

Would make it a lot easier to give an opinion on it.

And as mentioned above, dont even consider getting the auto and converting it to manual..... :glare: at the thought of it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...