Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im sceptical just as URAS is untill I can see correction figures.

Get them to run it up after the tune in shootout mode and make sure there are figures at the bottom like this one has.

GTRPowerRun1.jpg

Fairly easy to define a legit graph to a dodgy one then.

tell me what i need to ask for when he does it again on saturday, the HP figure means little to me but a safe AFR does.

Next time i will leave the arabic writting on the sheet so you can read that too :-)

yer i reckon i can ask him to do that thanks for the info

Edited by tacker

And another thing is with these turbos and no supporting mods you can expect bad compressor surge, as I've just found out! My GTR's barely drivable around town! So it looks like it's back into the garage for mine until I can afford the required extra's. :D

Well let me rephrase that.. just forewarning you... it's a possibility that you could end up with an undriveable car due to shuffle because of no supporting mods.

I have bugger all mods at this stage other than the usuals i.e exhaust, pods etc. No after market engine management (mines modified). One of my original turbo's shit itself and I plan to do quite a few mods later on and so wanted turbo's that will be up for it later on down the track hence the GT2860-5's (Never pulling them off again!! What a shit of a job!!!) And now have bad shuffle at cruise and low speeds.

Well let me rephrase that.. just forewarning you... it's a possibility that you could end up with an undriveable car due to shuffle because of no supporting mods.

I have bugger all mods at this stage other than the usuals i.e exhaust, pods etc. No after market engine management (mines modified). One of my original turbo's shit itself and I plan to do quite a few mods later on and so wanted turbo's that will be up for it later on down the track hence the GT2860-5's (Never pulling them off again!! What a shit of a job!!!) And now have bad shuffle at cruise and low speeds.

Turbo's ,especially 2530(-5)or GTRS(-10) for a gtr need some mods.

1-Exhaust should be at least 3" right through...including CAT.(Air)

2-Fuel pump replaced to NISMO with regulator.(Fuel)

3-A tune is required with an after-market ECU.

You don't expect more power when the Engine is in a mild state of tune...do you?

How do you expect things work...get a Turbo('s) that is larger and assume the car will be better...wrong?

You made the right choice with the 2530's...you just have not been listening to what every-one is saying.

Get yourself an ECU and get a tune

Turbo's ,especially 2530(-5)or GTRS(-10) for a gtr need some mods.

1-Exhaust should be at least 3" right through...including CAT.(Air)

2-Fuel pump replaced to NISMO with regulator.(Fuel)

3-A tune is required with an after-market ECU.

You don't expect more power when the Engine is in a mild state of tune...do you?

How do you expect things work...get a Turbo('s) that is larger and assume the car will be better...wrong?

You made the right choice with the 2530's...you just have not been listening to what every-one is saying.

Get yourself an ECU and get a tune

hmmm i think i will wait till i get a powerfc and a pump and get the car tuned for low boost before i drive it then.

johnny

Well let me rephrase that.. just forewarning you... it's a possibility that you could end up with an undriveable car due to shuffle because of no supporting mods.

I have bugger all mods at this stage other than the usuals i.e exhaust, pods etc. No after market engine management (mines modified). One of my original turbo's shit itself and I plan to do quite a few mods later on and so wanted turbo's that will be up for it later on down the track hence the GT2860-5's (Never pulling them off again!! What a shit of a job!!!) And now have bad shuffle at cruise and low speeds.

hmmm you have other issues, even though im no fan of 2860's i have fitted them to stockers b4 with no hassles in fact i just fitted larger T517Z's to my missus's RB26 powered silvia and it drives fine (no boost etc) of course it needs a tune but it would be safe as houses to go to shops and back....even as a daily commuter it would suffice until dyno time should present itself.. road tuning ruled out on this one....its a bit anti-social.

Turbo's ,especially 2530(-5)or GTRS(-10) for a gtr need some mods.

1-Exhaust should be at least 3" right through...including CAT.(Air)

2-Fuel pump replaced to NISMO with regulator.(Fuel)

3-A tune is required with an after-market ECU.

You don't expect more power when the Engine is in a mild state of tune...do you?

How do you expect things work...get a Turbo('s) that is larger and assume the car will be better...wrong?

You made the right choice with the 2530's...you just have not been listening to what every-one is saying.

Get yourself an ECU and get a tune

Yes i know and if you read my post properly it explains my reasons for putting these turbo's on without any supporting mods. JohnnyT originaly asked if his car would be ok with -5 turbo's and no supporting mods. And I'm simply saying that yes it will but he can't expect it to run properly..... like mine.

hmmm you have other issues, even though im no fan of 2860's i have fitted them to stockers b4 with no hassles in fact i just fitted larger T517Z's to my missus's RB26 powered silvia and it drives fine (no boost etc) of course it needs a tune but it would be safe as houses to go to shops and back....even as a daily commuter it would suffice until dyno time should present itself.. road tuning ruled out on this one....its a bit anti-social.

Hmm, possibly do have other issues, I didn't change anything other than a small amount of metal off the exhaust manifolds??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...