Jump to content
SAU Community

Change Of Battery

bugger

By bugger,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

Posted
Posted

Autoelectrican?

You can bend the current terminals to fit a larger battery. I just used a large flat-headed screwdriver, and then fitted a longer bolt to keep it secure. Haven't had any problems since.

HKS99 Collaborator

HKS99

Posted
Posted (edited)
Is it possible to connect the new terminals to the old ones??? without changing the old terminals?

as said above, its possible. Grab a screw driver and split the ends to enlarge the terminal holes. grab a hammer and tap the ends to securly tighten it. (grab a bigger bolt also)

alternativly you could go down to your local autobarn and buy bigger terminals and do it yourself. or pay someone to do it if your lazy.

Edited by HKS99
raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

Posted
Posted
Is it possible to connect the new terminals to the old ones??? without changing the old terminals?

Yep. Sorta similar to what I said above, but basically:

- new terminals go on battery posts

- long bolt through terminals

- old terminals connect to other side of bolt

- secure with a nut

Might still want to bend the old terminals to ensure that it won't come off easily.

MacGuyver Mentor

MacGuyver

Posted
Posted (edited)

What about some terminal adaptors? They clamp on to the new battery terminals and have a small peg that the battery cables fit onto. No fuss no muss. You can get these from Battery World in Perth for a few dollarinos.

Edited by MacGuyver

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...