Jump to content
SAU Community

Tomei Poncams Degree Card

GTR1993

By GTR1993,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTR1993 Mentor

GTR1993

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have some tomei cams in my GTR that i bought not long ago, put it on the dyno quickly and got 70 more kw out of it (yes they were set up that bad). Makes 240 rwkw at 14 psi (steel wheeled turbos but unsure what is actually done, ie bigger wheels)

When you buy the tomei cams new do they come with a degree card to dial in the cams properly? If so does anyone have it so i can do it, if not if it just trial and error?

Cheers

Edited by GTR1993
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161093-tomei-poncams-degree-card/
Share on other sites
700HP-GTR33 Mentor

700HP-GTR33

Posted
Posted
I have some tomei cams in my GTR that i bought not long ago, put it on the dyno quickly and got 70 more kw out of it (yes they were set up that bad). Makes 240 rwkw at 14 psi (steel wheeled turbos but unsude what is actually done, ie bigger wheels)

When you buy the tomei cams new do they come with a degree card to dial in the cams properly? If so does anyone have it so i can do it, if not if it just trial and error?

Cheers

If you mean the 9.15 lift PONCAMS....they are stated that a 0 intake and 0 exhaust is best,for stock motor.

You have after market turbo's so -2 or -3 on intake and -4 to -6 on exhaust is the area I

would be experimenting on in the tune.

Good luck....A 5 to 6 hour tune is required to get them spot on.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)
If you mean the 9.15 lift PONCAMS....they are stated that a 0 intake and 0 exhaust is best,for stock motor.

You have after market turbo's so -2 or -3 on intake and -4 to -6 on exhaust is the area I

would be experimenting on in the tune.

Good luck....A 5 to 6 hour tune is required to get them spot on.

yeah but zero on the gears is not often zero on the cams, HKS especially need dialling in to get a "real" zero. some supra ones i used on this car a few years back were ~4 degrees out.

Edited by URAS
GTR1993 Mentor

GTR1993

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yea and because the motor is rebuilt with a thicker head gasket, along witht he deck may or may not have been decked can also change where true 0 is, i threw it on the dyno and got some good gains and got the mixtures where they needed to be, i think the exhaust cam could still be holding in too much exhaust gasses (or the exhaust was too restrictive i cant rember if i still had the minature cat converter in it) as it didnt want to take much ignition timing.

What timing can you put into these 26s? I was suprised as mine seems to be decompressed (flat 125 psi across all 6) and didnt like alot of timing.

GTR1993 Mentor

GTR1993

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Nah i dont mean the wheel, i mean at what crank angle should the inlet/exhaust be opening the valve 20 thou, or how ever they want to rate it as.

On some wade cam specs i got here it says when they are open 50 thou so you can get a decent starting point, then go from there.

Edited by GTR1993
700HP-GTR33 Mentor

700HP-GTR33

Posted
Posted
yeah but zero on the gears is not often zero on the cams, HKS especially need dialling in to get a "real" zero. some supra ones i used on this car a few years back were ~4 degrees out.

When you install cams...you need to put them in at 0 degree..I think they call it drop centre.

There is lots of talk about this on the Forum...do a search.

You then dial the cam gears to adjust the cams.

Am I reading you guys right here.

More than likely the Supra cams or cam gears were installed incorrectly....it is easy to make a mistake .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...