Jump to content
SAU Community

Some Dramas

DaGr81
 Share

Recommended Posts

DaGr81 Mentor

DaGr81

Posted
Posted

ive just finished my turbo conversion previously na, ended up quite alot cheaper than a full engine, but only problem i have now is my gear box seems a bit crunchier than normal and when i try to put it into 1st its very very very hard reverse as well, my engine idle is not normal either its around the 1000rpm mark, could this be the problem? as when the car is off and standing the gears are so easy to get into and out of, i hope i dont need a new gear box :S

Any help or advice or tips will be much appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161320-some-dramas/
Share on other sites
Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sounds like your clutch is buggard. can you feel the tailshaft move or the dif clunk when you do get it into gear ? if you can it means the clutch is not working properly.

Did you upgrade the clutch or is it a standard NA one?

Edited by Guilt-Toy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161320-some-dramas/#findComment-2995362
Share on other sites
DaGr81 Mentor

DaGr81

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The idle can be adjusted via the aac valve - there is a screw on the side of it

i got no idea where that is lol.... but the power fc says the engines rpm isnt stable but its hovers around the 800 - 860 mark yet the tacho (original not one of them big ones) says its around 1000 rpm.... who to believe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161320-some-dramas/#findComment-2997024
Share on other sites
DaGr81 Mentor

DaGr81

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i forgot to say that it only didnt want to go to 1st and reverse just the one time it happened after taking my car for the 1st spin after i got it back. Also it is just sometimes that its a little bit harder than normal to get into these gears. what could be the problem with the clutch? (its brand new like not even a week old) or did they not install it properly or something? (advan performance)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161320-some-dramas/#findComment-3003016
Share on other sites
DaGr81 Mentor

DaGr81

Posted
  • Author
Posted

it happened again (the b@stard) i was in stop start traffic for about 30 mins in 5 dock (nsw) then got on to anzac bridge and it started to rain hard. i exited off to ultimo and 1st was hard to get into (after coming to a complete stop) after a while i found my parking spot to go to work (about 5.30 pm) still raining parked but couldnt reverse to straighten it up, it made huge crunching noises, even though i was at a complete stop, so i left the car parked slightly uneven. Around 9.30 went to pay the meter again at the same time while the car was off i tried to see if it would get into gear while it was off, and it did very smooth and not hard at all. Finished off at 2.45am got into the car and 1st and reverse were hard to get into but it got there, didnt crunch this time round, after a while of driving as i was going home 1st got easier to get into but reverse wasnt as easy but much easier than when i 1st parked the car at 5.30. How can a brand new heavy duty clutch (especially from exedy) not be doing its damn job! Do you reckon its getting too cold too easy or too hot or something. Ive emailed advan about it already so i'll be taking it in when they get back to me, but id like to know how could a brand new clutch do this to me, its heart breaking :P haha especially when you cant reverse park , lucky i found one that i didnt need to reverse to get into *phewf*

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161320-some-dramas/#findComment-3003807
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
DaGr81 Mentor

DaGr81

Posted
  • Author
Posted

man this is such a hassel, its happening again, hard to get into 1st and reverse is almost impossible, ive noticed it only happens when its raining??? (any ideas?) or it once happened when i had the air con on full blast....... :santa:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161320-some-dramas/#findComment-3067244
Share on other sites
dbo Enthusiast

dbo

Posted
Posted

Just take it back to where you got the clutch installed. Have the car checked over. We can only guesstimate what the issue is, but considering you got the clutch a week ago and the problem seems to be clutch related, your best to just take it back and get a definite answer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161320-some-dramas/#findComment-3067624
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...